Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — CompleteDarwin, Charles
Science
Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — Complete
Darwin, Charles
Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
The geographer Balbi has in effect described those barrier-reefs, which
encircle moderately sized islands, by calling them atolls with high
land rising from within their central expanse. The general resemblance
between the reefs of the barrier and atoll classes may be seen in the
small, but accurately reduced charts on Plate I,[1] and this
resemblance can be further shown to extend to every part of the
structure. Beginning with the outside of the reef; many scattered
soundings off Gambier, Oualan, and some other encircled islands, show
that close to the breakers there exists a narrow shelving margin,
beyond which the ocean becomes suddenly unfathomable; but off the west
coast of New Caledonia, Captain Kent[2] found no bottom with 150
fathoms, at two ships’ length from the reef; so that the slope here
must be nearly as precipitous as off the Maldiva atolls.
[1] The authorities from which these charts have been reduced,
together with some remarks on them are given in a separately appended
page, descriptive of the Plates.
[2] Dalrymple, “Hydrog. Mem.” vol. iii.
I can give little information regarding the kinds of corals which live
on the outer margin. When I visited the reef at Tahiti, although it was
low water, the surf was too violent for me to see the living masses;
but, according to what I heard from some intelligent native chiefs,
they resemble in their rounded and branchless forms, those on the
margin of Keeling atoll. The extreme verge of the reef, which was
visible between the breaking waves at low water, consisted of a
rounded, convex, artificial-like breakwater, entirely coated with
Nulliporæ, and absolutely similar to that which I have described at
Keeling atoll. From what I heard when at Tahiti, and from the writings
of the Revs. W. Ellis and J. Williams, I conclude that this peculiar
structure is common to most of the encircled islands of the Society
Archipelago. The reef within this mound or breakwater, has an extremely
irregular surface, even more so than between the islets on the reef of
Keeling atoll, with which alone (as there are no islets on the reef of
Tahiti) it can properly be compared. At Tahiti, the reef is very
irregular in width; but round many other encircled islands, for
instance, Vanikoro or Gambier Islands (Figs 1 and 8, Plate I), it is
quite as regular, and of the same average width, as in true atolls.
Most barrier-reefs on the inner side slope irregularly into the
lagoon-channel (as the space of deep water separating the reef from the
included land may be called), but at Vanikoro the reef slopes only for
a short distance, and then terminates abruptly in a submarine wall,
forty feet high,—a structure absolutely similar to that described by
Chamisso in the Marshall atolls.
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