Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — CompleteDarwin, Charles
Science
Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — Complete
Darwin, Charles
Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
In the Society Archipelago, Ellis[3] states, that the reefs generally
lie at the distance of from one to one and a half miles, and,
occasionally, even at more than three miles, from the shore. The
central mountains are generally bordered by a fringe of flat, and often
marshy, alluvial
land, from one to four miles in width. This fringe consists of
coral-sand and detritus thrown up from the lagoon-channel, and of soil
washed down from the hills; it is an encroachment on the channel,
analogous to that low and inner part of the islets in many atolls which
is formed by the accumulation of matter from the lagoon. At Hogoleu
(Fig. 2, Plate I), in the Caroline Archipelago,[4] the reef on the
south side is no less than twenty miles; on the east side, five; and on
the north side, fourteen miles from the encircled high islands.
[3] Consult, on this and other points, the “Polynesian Researches,” by
the Rev. W. Ellis, an admirable work, full of curious information.
[4] See “Hydrographical Mem.” and the “Atlas of the Voyage of the
_Astrolabe_,” by Captain Dumont D’Urville, p. 428.
The lagoon channels may be compared in every respect with true lagoons.
In some cases they are open, with a level bottom of fine sand; in
others they are choked up with reefs of delicately branched corals,
which have the same general character as those within the Keeling
atoll. These internal reefs either stand separately, or more commonly
skirt the shores of the included high islands. The depth of the
lagoon-channel round the Society Islands varies from two or three to
thirty fathoms; in Cook’s[5] chart of Ulieta, however, there is one
sounding laid down of forty-eight fathoms; at Vanikoro there are
several of fifty-four and one of fifty-six and a half fathoms
(English), a depth which even exceeds by a little that of the interior
of the great Maldiva atolls. Some barrier-reefs have very few islets on
them; whilst others are surmounted by numerous ones; and those round
part of Bolabola (Plate I, Fig. 5) form a single linear strip. The
islets first appear either on the angles of the reef, or on the sides
of the breaches through it, and are generally most numerous on the
windward side. The reef to leeward retaining its usual width, sometimes
lies submerged several fathoms beneath the surface; I have already
mentioned Gambier Island as an instance of this structure. Submerged
reefs, having a less defined outline, dead, and covered with sand, have
been observed (see Appendix) off some parts of Huaheine and Tahiti. The
reef is more frequently breached to leeward than to windward; thus I
find in Krusenstern’s “Memoir on the Pacific,” that there are passages
through the encircling reef on the leeward side of each of the seven
Society Islands, which possess ship-harbours; but that there are
openings to windward through the reef of only three of them. The
breaches in the reef are seldom as deep as the interior lagoon-like
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