Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — CompleteDarwin, Charles
Science
Coral Reefs; Volcanic Islands; South American Geology — Complete
Darwin, Charles
Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Coral reefs and islands; Geology -- South America; Islands; Volcanoes
It appears, as will be shown in the ensuing chapter, that the action of
the surf is favourable to the vigorous growth of the stronger corals,
and that sand or sediment, if agitated by the waves, is injurious to
them. Hence it is probable that a reef on a shelving shore, like that
of Mauritius, would at first grow up, not attached to the actual beach,
but at some little distance from it; and the corals on the outer margin
would be the most vigorous. A shallow channel would thus be formed
within the reef, and as the breakers are prevented acting on the shores
of the island, and as they do not ordinarily tear up many fragments
from the outside, and as every streamlet has its bed prolonged in a
straight line through the reef, this channel could be filled up only
very slowly with sediment. But a beach of sand and of fragments of the
smaller kinds of coral seems, in the case of Mauritius, to be slowly
encroaching on the shallow channel. On many shelving and sandy coasts,
the breakers tend to form a bar of sand a little way from the beach,
with a slight increase of depth within it; for instance, Captain
Grey[2] states that the west coast of Australia, in latitude 24°, is
fronted by a sand bar about two hundred yards in width, on which there
is only two feet of water; but within it the depth increases to two
fathoms. Similar bars, more or less perfect, occur on other coasts. In
these cases I suspect that the shallow channel (which no doubt during
storms is occasionally obliterated) is scooped out by the flowing away
of the
water thrown beyond the line, on which the waves break with the
greatest force. At Pernambuco a bar of hard sandstone,[3] which has the
same external form and height as a coral-reef, extends nearly parallel
to the coast; within this bar currents, apparently caused by the water
thrown over it during the greater part of each tide, run strongly, and
are wearing away its inner wall. From these facts it can hardly be
doubted, that within most fringing-reefs, especially within those lying
some distance from the land, a return stream must carry away the water
thrown over the outer edge; and the current thus produced, would tend
to prevent the channel being filled up with sediment, and might even
deepen it under certain circumstances. To this latter belief I am led,
by finding that channels are almost universally present within the
fringing-reefs of those islands which have undergone recent elevatory
movements; and this could hardly have been the case, if the conversion
of the very shallow channel into land had not been counteracted to a
certain extent.
[2] Captain Grey’s “Journal of Two Expeditions,” vol. i, p. 369.
[3] I have described this singular structure in the _Lond. and Edin.
Phil. Mag.,_ October 1841.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account