Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The fall of the Roman Empire marked the disappearance of the mask from
the stage. From then onward it appeared only in pantomime, where the mask
of Punchinello is familiar to this day. The nutcracker countenance, with
its highly-coloured cheeks and tinkling bells, is a survival of extreme
antiquity. I pause to wonder who the old Greek may have been whom the
maker of masks thus immortalised? There is a world of cynicism, pathos,
and philosophy in his face. I feel that he sorrowed, and that it was not
because he knew too little, but because he knew too much.
The practice of wearing masks, by private individuals in everyday life,
started, as did the fashion for dominoes, in Venice. There the black
satin and velvet masks, still worn at fancy-dress balls and during
Carnival time, first obtained, to be enthusiastically adopted in France
and England a little later on. In the latter country, however, the use
of the mask never degenerated into an abuse as in France, although masks
became so fashionable in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, that
society ladies deemed them an essential accessory to the toilette. They
were not always worn: sometimes they were carried in the hand and held up
to the face only when necessary. The exclusive elected to appear masked
at the theatre and other public places.
But the universal wearing of masks became such a public menace and
incentive to crime that in 1535 an edict was issued in France
prohibiting the fashion excepting during Carnival time. Under Henry IV.
the privilege was restricted to the nobility, and it was made a capital
crime for any commoner to don a mask.
With Louis XIII. the mask fell into temporary abeyance, only to be
revived with renewed vigour under his successor. The first occasion
upon which Louis XIV. appeared in a mask was at the Palais Cardinal in
January 1656. From that date until January 1668 he was an enthusiastic
supporter of the vogue. The fashion, prevalent in 1650, of ladening masks
with superfluous trimming was of but short duration. While the craze
lasted a ruching of lace adorned the top, a lace frill the bottom, and
the eyes were encrusted with various decorations to such an extent that
ladies, descending from their carriages, were obliged to be led, it being
impossible for them to see. The preposterous vogue inspired Scarron's
ditty:
Dirai-je comment ces fantasques
Qui portent dentelles à leurs masques
En chamarrent les trous des yeux
Croyant que leur masque en est mieux.
Like its associate the domino, the mask gradually faded away with the
passing of the eighteenth century. In Italy it enjoyed the longest
and most undisputed sway. There it was worn by all members of the
community, including the clergy. The Council of Ten, the Inquisitors,
and the members of the Holy Office generally, both in Italy and Spain,
were closely masked when employed upon the exercise of their terrible
functions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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