Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Lace has paid for its success in a disputed birthplace, for both Flanders
and Italy claim its first manufacture, the experts declaring in favour of
the latter, and asserting that Italy bore the art to Spain and passed it
on to Flanders. In any case Venice must be granted the first prize for
the beauty of its lace, which in early days was enriched with gold and
silver. Caen is accorded the honour of having first introduced blonde
lace, while France and Switzerland and Belgium have all contributed
their share towards the perfecting of "the most fascinating of all
fabrics," and different events of history have brought no small influence
to bear on the popularity of different laces in different periods, the
foreign-made bone-lace obtaining the distinction of being banished from
England by royal order. In the reigns of the Stuarts, lace adorned
alike feminine and masculine attire, and the collar of the luckless
King Charles I. in his many pictures by Vandyke has stamped the fact
indelibly on our minds. The Commonwealth greatly affected the manufacture
of lace in England, though some of the most rigid Puritans continued to
wear Flanders lace, and the dead body of the Protector was "robed in
purple velvet, ermine, and richest Flanders lace"--not so bad for the
simple cerements of the greatest socialist who ever lived! The passion
for wearing lace reached its height in England in the reign of William
and Mary, when lace was indispensable to the most exalted wearers of
the commodes, and its influence was essential on the full cravats and
ruffles. In the reigns of George I. and George II., Brussels lace grew
especially popular; but English lace reached a pitch of perfection at
this period, Devonshire being especially famous for the industry. In
its delicate meshes lace has held captive to its charms many earnest
students who have set down its biography in various volumes, and to skim
these hurriedly is to do them wrong; so in passing I would recommend
their pages to the leisured, while chronicling that we have known lace
needle-run or pillow-made for nearly four centuries, and that it was
preceded by the "cut out," the _appliqué_, and an embroidery worked in
stiffly conventional design on net with cords of thread.
The most faithful and punctilious archæologists confess that the origin
of the corset must be written down to the credit or discredit of man, for
they find the birth of its existence may be dated in the far antiquity,
when the savage made his hunting belt of leather stiffened with bone or
hard stick held with a thong of hide, and as decorative as useful, since
it was adorned with shells and quills and served to hold the knife or
quiver.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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