Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
The early fashions of Egypt in gala times, although sufficiently
decorative in their colour and drapery, were always spoilt by the hideous
head-dress of black wool or hair tied with wool and plaited, or set out
aggressively at either side like a furze bush in mourning. On state
occasions the Egyptian woman wore a dress with full sleeves of silk
checked in crimson and yellow. The hem was trimmed with a gold fringe,
and round the waist was a wide girdle, and on the feet leather shoes
embroidered in gold. The black plaits as well as the head were adorned
with gold braid encrusted with precious stones; a blue lotus flower fell
over the forehead, a number of gold bodkins were placed above the fillet,
and large gold hoops hung from the ears. Bracelets and necklets formed
of rows of enamelled discs, pearls, strings of lizards and beetles of
stamped gold, all served at feasts to adorn the Egyptian beauty, whose
favourite bangle was in the form of a snake, and whose fingers were stiff
with rings.
An old Indian festival dress is emblazoned with beads and silks in gay
colours, and bears long square lappets hanging from a jewelled headpiece.
The sombre tunic is enriched with jewels at the neck and waist.
Remarkable specimens of old Indian taste and ingenuity are the tunics
made of leather thickly encrusted with beads of different colours in
geometrical pattern, such tunics being fringed with leather and completed
by a much feathered head-dress.
Byron's verse gives a haunting picture of Moorish magnificence, when he
describes Haidée in her joy:
Around, as Princess of her father's land,
A like gold bar above her instep rolled
Announced her rank; twelve rings were on her hand;
Her hair was starr'd with gems; her veil's fine fold
Below her breast was fastened with a band
Of lavish pearls, whose worth could scarce be told;
Her orange silk full Turkish trousers furl'd
About the prettiest ankle in the world.
In Bokhara the bride wears a rose-coloured veil on her wedding-day; and
here, strangely enough, deep blue is the distinctive mourning colour.
The costume of married women in Afghanistan must be granted much
admiration: they wear a shirt with wide sleeves embroidered with flowers
in coloured silks, coloured trousers, and a small cap embroidered in gold
threads, and over this, at the approach of a stranger, they throw a large
sheet. Beneath the cap the hair is divided into two plaits on either side
and fastened at the back. Chains, nose and ear rings are selected at
discretion; and the unmarried women are known by their white trousers and
loosely flowing hair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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