Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
No less an authority than Mr. Pinero, when discussing the influence that
dress may exercise on the art of acting, has declared that our plays
are for the most part over-dressed, with extravagance, vulgarity, and
inappropriateness obtaining in place of artistic fitness. It is well
known that Pinero takes a personal interest in every detail pertaining
to his productions, and such condemnation from him is condemnation
indeed. Especially when he caps it by saying that he has found that the
new costumes have to some extent frequently undone the results of his
undress rehearsals, the actresses no longer representing his creations as
they did before the dressmakers sent home their gowns, while the variety
of their impersonations is swamped by the uniformity of their fashions.
Even while grumbling, Pinero admits that stage costume has made wonderful
progress since the time when Robertson's appropriately-dressed plays
doomed the theatrical stock wardrobe, and Alfred Thompson initiated
reforms making for artistic harmony; nevertheless, Pinero protests that
it is time for the dramatist, in the interests of dramatic art, to say to
the costumiers and the purveyors of fashion, "Thus far shall ye go, and
no farther."
Sir James Linton took up this cry, while declaring that the bane of the
dressmaker was over all feminine stage costume, and would be, until there
arose an autocratic manager. Sir James is severe, and would accept no
compromise, insisting that dress in historical plays should be absolutely
accurate, quite regardless of the becoming, and asserting that an element
of incongruity is always present on the stage, introduced by the mere
vanity of the mere woman.
In how far the art of costume may affect the art of drama I have my pet
theories, which include a predilection in favour of red of all shades for
historical dress; an appreciation of the charm of decoration in black and
gold; a recognition of the immense value of black in small quantities
wisely disposed, and much sympathy with trimmings of black and white on
light dress of modern fashion. Combinations of colour which in ordinary
circumstances would appear at least daring, and, at the most, unpleasant,
have a knack of being effective when worn on the stage. The deep crimson
lining to the scarlet cloak may be quoted as an example of this, together
with the alliance of emerald green with turquoise blue, and orange colour
with lemon. On fairies and other angels of the ballet the repetition of
the same costume is of great value, the multiplied mass enchaining the
eye, where smaller groups of diverse details fail to hold it.
[Illustration: GEORGE ALEXANDER AS GUY DOMVILLE.]
In moments of passionate emotion it is well that the actor or actress
should discard a hat. Irving rarely wore one at all, invariably taking
the first opportunity to remove his, bearing it with his special grace
under his arm or in his hand, as opportunity permitted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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