Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
My investigations by the way of Scotch and Irish and Welsh peasants have
been few, but the details of one modern representative Irish peasant's
dress I can quote as including "a short skirt of linsey turned up over
a petticoat of red or some other bright colour, with the bodice belted
round the waist and laced down the front, worn beneath a long frieze
cloak with cap and hood; the head is covered with a kerchief." Of
imperishable memory is the red Connemara colleen cloak; and the native
Welsh dress is not less dear to the lovers of the picturesque, with its
high pointed hat worn above a frilled lawn cap, the worsted shawl, the
short petticoat, and white apron and trim shoes. The Highland dress was
in its original form a chequered covering known as a breconfeile, a plain
piece of tartan two yards wide and six yards in length placed round the
waist in folds, and held in position by a leather belt. The plaid was
fastened on the left shoulder by a large brooch, the right end hanging
down longer than the left, being tucked into the belt, while the right
arm was left uncovered save in the severest weather, when the plaid was
thrown over the whole body. This was the wear, until the end of the
eighteenth century, of Lowlanders and Highlanders alike.
The Scotch, and the Irish too, had a rooted antipathy to foot-gear,
preferring to carry their shoes and stockings rather than permit them to
do their proper duties, and when the etiquette of church-going demanded
the sacrifice of this inclination, they yielded only during the service,
afterwards sitting on any convenient gravestone to remove the unwelcome
impediments.
The national head-dress of the Highlanders is the round flat bonnet of
blue cloth, with an eagle's feather; and for many centuries men and women
wore plaids alike, the usual colours being white striped with red, black,
or blue, the men's stockings matching these.
Thinking seriously over the dress of the peasant in the North, South,
East, and West, I am tempted to protest that progression has meant
retrogression, and that the modern country-woman, with her indiscreet
lace-trimmed blouse revealing the ragged belt of her mud-coloured
petticoat, makes a sorry figure in comparison with her sister-toiler
of the past; and I recall sorrowfully even this description of an
early Victorian peasant-woman's dress which reads: "To consist of a
full skirt of print gathered into a band at the waist; there is a full
crossover-bodice over a full vest of the same material, finished with a
frill at the neck. The sleeves are full above the elbow with two puffs,
and from these are tight to the wrists, and a muslin mob-cap is worn with
a bow of ribbon in front."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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