Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Despite their long and romantic association with the country, and the
impress they left on its architecture and its history, the influence of
the Moors is in nowise apparent in the dress of the Spanish peasantry.
The people of the Peninsula manage to unite in admirable fashion the
practical with the picturesque, as expressed by the costumes peculiar
to the different provinces. What, for instance, could be more happily
conceived than the dress of a Castilian peasant? The short sleeveless
coat, or bolero, consists of coloured cotton edged with an _appliqué_
design in imitation of coarse braid. This is worn in conjunction with a
shirt of white cotton conspicuous for a stand-up collar and sleeves to
the elbow, a wide red sash encircling the waist, where it is held firmly
in place by a narrow leather belt on which the wearer's name, or that of
his fiancée, is embroidered. The tight knickerbockers are of serviceable
texture, gartered at the knee, each showing four silver or gilt buttons
in a row up the outside of the leg. The gaiters combine the duty of
stockings, and are supplemented by low, thick-soled sandals, termed
_alpargatās_ or _espardeñas_, tied round the ankle with gay ribbons. The
fête costume of the women embraces a voluminous skirt of fine cloth,
extending below the knees and trimmed about the bottom with wide and
narrow bands of black ribbon velvet, and an apron, likewise of cloth, but
in a contrasting colour, bordered with gold lace or passementerie. The
closely-fitting jacket reaches to the hips; the seams are outlined in
gold lace, and the sleeves slashed open from the elbow to the wrist to
reveal white under-sleeves belonging to the chemisette, a second glimpse
of which is caught at the neck in front. An immensely long coral chain is
wound countless times about the throat, and dangling from it are sacred
medallions and variously sized crosses, the whole forming a plastron
which descends to the waist. White cotton stockings are usual--red
ones indicating a bride--and black leather shoes relieved with ribbon
rosettes. The hair is plaited, tied with black velvet, and allowed to
hang down behind, and the mitre-shaped hat is of black velvet trimmed up
each side with a serried row of silver buttons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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