Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
Still more beautiful and sumptuous is the fête dress of the women of
Torjok. They wear a singular head-dress known as _kokoschink_, which,
literally translated, signifies the crest of a hen, the why and wherefore
of the name being a riddle beyond the power of the average intelligence
to solve. Modelled on the lines of a reversed funnel, the tall slender
crown of the _kokoschink_ is white, encircled by narrow bands of gold,
and surmounted in the case of married women by a metal ornament which
may be triangular, oval, round, or crescent-shaped. The only rule from
which no departure may be made is that the crown be absolutely vertical,
whereas the crown common to the spinster of the community slants abruptly
towards the front. All without exception display a brim composed of an
outstanding frill of white lace encrusted with seed pearls, and an
enormous veil of white gauze embroidered and edged with gold, which is
attached to the top of the _kokoschink_ and floats over the shoulders,
the two points dipping to touch the ground at either side.
These veils are not, as might easily be supposed, of Mohammedan origin,
nor are they even remotely associated with romance. As a matter of fact,
nothing could well be more prosaic than their history, for they were
first adopted as a protection against the plague of flies with which the
district is infested in warm weather.
Pre-eminently picturesque, the costume they shroud reveals a skirt of
such generous proportions as to recall memories of the crinoline. This is
of silk, and buttons down the front, and it is not only edged with gold,
but bears an all-over pattern traced in gold galon. The loose sleeveless
jacket terminates below the waist, where it stands out stiffly, and is
of similar texture, treated in equally lavish style with gold, the huge
leg-o'-mutton sleeves belonging to the white chemisette being richly
embroidered in gold thread. The throat is hidden by an unyielding cravat
of white taffetas ruled with fine gold cord, the short ends crossed under
the chin; and the shoes are of morocco or velvet, with a design worked in
gold threads.
In winter the veil is abandoned in favour of a shawl of white taffetas
fringed with gold, worn over a modified version of the summer
_kokoschink_, in pale blue silk, embroidered with seed pearls and gold.
The all-enveloping greatcoat is of cloth or velvet, edged with fur, and
lapped well over on the right side, where it fastens near the shoulder
only. A feature of the wrap is the sleeve, which is narrow and of
abnormal length, terminating below the knees in a fur cuff, no hint
being allowed to transpire of the hands thus jealously guarded from the
unwelcome attentions of frost.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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