The cloth-looker’s duty is to examine each piece of cloth, reporting
any fault to the person responsible, and throwing out as seconds the
pieces which are not up to quality. The faults attributable to the
weaving are:--
FAULTS IN CLOTH.
Bare, badly-covered cloth, caused by the back rest of the loom being
too low, the shed too large, late treading and picking, too much
weight or uneven sheds. Cockly cloth looks raw and has raised lumps on
the face caused by too little weight. Cracks are sometimes weavers’
faults in not letting back after weft breaking, take-up motion working
unequally, or through some parts not being screwed up tightly. The
reed case also requires attention in case of this objectionable fault.
Uneven cloth is generally attributable to the unevenness of the weft,
although anything tending to unequal release of the warp from the beam,
such as weights touching the floor, damp ropes, or loose pivots, may
cause it.
Reedy cloth is caused when a few dents of the reed are bent out of
position.
Bad sides are either slattered, caused by unsatisfactory bottoming, or
are frayed and raw from lack of sufficient side ends. Occasionally a
bad picker catches the weft and causes a peculiar ridgy selvage.
Floats are the result of obstruction in the shed generally, broken
twist keeping down the warp threads and preventing their interweaving
with the weft; a raw place is caused which can generally be obliterated.
Mashes are on a larger scale. If the shuttle is entrapped without
the reed flying out, in loose reed looms, or the protector acting in
fast reeds, the twist is entirely broken out for several inches in
the width. To piece up all these ends leaves an ugly place, and it is
occasionally preferable to weave on and seam the piece, after cutting
out the obnoxious part. A shuttle spelling will cause the same effect
as trapping.
Broken picks are caused by several layers of weft coming off the
cop into one shed. These should be picked out by the weaver, as,
besides being unsightly, they are objectionable in certain after
processes--printing, raising for oilcloth purposes, etc.
In figured work faulty patterns, slattering borders, and missing picks
or ends require attention.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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