Black oil--that is, oil discoloured by being mixed with the particles
of iron ground off the shaft necks and bearings--must be washed out
with soap and water. Oxalic acid is often applied to the spots,
combining with the iron and forming oxalate of iron, which, being
soluble in water, can be rinsed out. This substance, unless thoroughly
cleansed out, acts somewhat corrosively on the fibre, and for this
reason is tabooed by some cloth buyers. In coloured work care must
be taken that the colour shows up well and bright. According to the
prevalence of any of these faults in a piece of cloth, the cloth-looker
has to select and classify his deliveries. Other important items
are included in the scrutiny--short lengths and widths, short or
uneven weights, too light reed and pick, wrong headings, are all very
important points, necessitating careful attention, and instant report
of same to the persons responsible.
HEADINGS.
Headings, or cross-borders, are bars of coloured wefts placed at the
end of each piece of cloth for distinction from other pieces. These
headings are also placed at other parts of the cloth, indicating where
the pieces are to be separated by the retail dealers. These headings
are very fanciful and intricate in some instances, ranging, as they do,
from the simple stripe heading of 2 or 4 picks, to the extensive Sarrie
or Madras heading 15 or 20 inches in length. The principal headings are
the Bombay, Ceylon, Sarrie, Calcutta, and Madras.
PACKING.
After having been passed the goods are made up into portable bundles
of about 10 pieces in each, and are ready for forwarding to the
warehouses in Manchester, or possibly to the bleachers or printers,
or to some Glasgow or London house. Some few manufacturers have also
a shipping connection, when the cloth is packed and forwarded direct
without passing through the hands of the Manchester agent. The bulk
of the cloth goes to Manchester, and here undergoes a second scrutiny
preparatory to packing if shipped “in the grey,” or previous to being
forwarded to the bleacher, dyer, finisher, or printer, if it has to
undergo these processes before export.
Bleaching is the removal of any colour from the cloth by the action of
chemicals.
Printing is the colouring of the surface of the cloth according to a
figure or design, and may be in several colours.
In finishing, the cloth is coated with filling substances and has a
gloss imparted to it, greatly improving the appearance of the fabric.
In such fabrics as cotton blankets, or for the thin oilcloths known
as American cloths, the fibres on the surface of the cloth have to be
raised; this operation is performed in a raising machine, where, by
means of pointed filleting, the face of the fabric is abraded until the
fibres form a nap.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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