Shirtings 39 37-1/2 16 × 15 30/36’s 8-1/4lb. T-Cloths 32 24 14 × 14 -- 6lb. Mexicans 32 24 18 × 18 -- 7lb. Jacconetts 44 20 14 × 14 40/50’s -- Mulls 50 20 20 × 20 80/100’s -- Domestics 29 80 14 × 14 18/18’s -- Dhooties 44 40 16 × 15 30/40’s -- Printers 32 116 16 × 16 32/50’s -- In this connection, as reliable and comprehensive a list as it is convenient to gather is placed before the reader; although, from the varied character of cotton cloth, many specialities are omitted, such, maybe, as those cloths used in the hat trade for lining, the oilcloths, umbrella cloths, and numerous milliners’ and drapery requirements for the home trade. [Illustration: Decoration] CHAPTER VI. FANCY WEAVING, TAPPET AND DOBBY WORK, ANALYSIS OF CLOTH, TAPPETS, CLOTH, DOBBIES, DOBBY CLOTH, GAUZE, HANDKERCHIEF MOTION. An important and increasingly successful department of cotton manufacturing is that comprised under the heading of fancy work. Here a great amount of skill and intelligence is necessary, and in the more complicated goods a display of talent uncalled for in the limited and well-trodden ways of plain manufacturing. In fancy weaving not only do we come across the variations of manufacturing details which present themselves in the ordinary branches, but, in addition, an infinite variety of patterns and different designs crowd upon the one side, while on the other an artistic eye is required to combat with and blend the varied groups of colours and shades in harmony and beauty. A moment’s reflection will remind the reader of the great number of the cotton cloths which come under the heading of fancies, and for purposes of convenience we must treat of them under the headlines of three chapters--Simpler fancies, Jacquard and complicated fancies and Checks. CLASSIFICATION OF CLOTH. Woven fabrics of any material may be divided into four main classes:--Plain, figured, gauze and woven pile cloths; laces formed on an entirely different structure being disregarded. Plains show no figure of any nature on the face of the cloth, have every end and pick interwoven alternately, while the warp forms a right angle with the weft. Apparent figures, ribs and stripes may be made by using fine and coarse weft or alternate counts of warp. Stripes or checks of colour may be introduced, but if the weave be unaltered the cloth still is classed as plain. Figured is a very comprehensive group, consisting of the twills, sateens, velveteens, figured borders, figured checks, damasks, brocades, dimity, weft pile, counterpanes, fustians, cords, etc., and almost all fancy cloths, except gauze and warp pile.