In transferring a pattern from a piece of cloth to point paper, a
beginner would pin it to a board, mark an end of warp, say No. 1 in
Fig. 31, and commencing with the bottom pick 1, mark crosses on his
point paper where the warp shows at any square in that pick--thus, at
the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 9th ends--working upwards to the next pick,
starting at the same end. Similarly a second pick is put down on the
point paper above the first, always working in one direction, say from
left to right. This is continued until the pattern begins to repeat
itself, as at pick 9, when it is complete. A pattern is the least
number of ends and picks on which a cloth can be woven, the picks or
ends of a second pattern being facsimilæ of the first.
The analysis or pricking of patterns is performed by an experienced man
without the tedious process of pulling the cloth asunder, the pattern
being read from the face of the cloth by means of a cloth-glass.
DESIGNING.
Designing (actual) is a very different process. A figure or figures
of some character must be originated suited to the class of cloth for
which it is intended. This is first sketched on plain paper, called a
rule, painted (if colour be desired), and having due regard to economy
in the weaving, it is transferred to point paper.
This is done by ruling the design in inch squares, and should the reed
and pick per inch be equal, 8 × 8 paper is used; if the reed and pick
are in proportion to 8 and 6, 8 and 10, 12 and 8, or any other ratio,
point paper of that size is used, and the figures will appear in the
cloth proportioned as in the rule. The leading figures of the pair of
numbers are, in jacquard work, always equal to the number of rows of
needles, thus 8 ×--is for a 400 machine, 12 ×--for a 600.
DRAFTS.
After having obtained the pattern of a cloth it is necessary to draft
the ends on the least number of healds on which the cloth can be woven.
Drafts are represented in various ways--_e.g._, by drawing lines
representing the healds and marking the order in which the ends are
drawn on them; thus, if the first end be drawn on the first or front
heald, the second on the second heald and so on, we get a straight
draft as shown in Fig. 35.
[Illustration: FIG. 35.]
The numbers represent the heald on which the end is drawn. The ends are
lettered in their order.
Should the first end be on the first heald, the second end on the
third heald, the third end on the second heald, the fourth on the
fourth heald, we get a skip draft--thus:
[Illustration: FIG. 36.]
In practice it is usual to omit the lines and just give the draft,
thus:--
4
3
2
1
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