The tappet is fixed on the upper frame-work of the loom and short
treadles arranged above it. To these the healds are attached and lifted
by the plates, being drawn down afterwards by springs and the healds.
In a recently-improved form the treadles raise the jacks to which the
healds are attached, giving a straight lift. These tappets are seldom
used for more than 8 healds and 12 picks to the round. Above this
extent in tappet work, a Woodcroft sectional tappet is used, arranged
at the loom side. In these tappets the projections (called risers
and fallers) are removable, the tappet being adaptable to different
patterns up to 14 staves and 20 picks. In the Yorkshire loom, Fig. 23,
the tappets are placed at the loom side, and are connected with the top
of the healds by rods.
Tappets possess the advantage over other shedding motions of larger
capacity, such as the dobby: (_a_) in lower first cost; (_b_) steadier
and stronger lift without risk of hooks slipping; (_c_) in having a
split shed--_i.e._, a shed which has one portion pulled down while the
other is drawn up, saving time. Dobbies and jacquards generally have a
sunk shed, and if by those machines a shed 2 inches deep is required,
the lifting knives have to be raised the whole distance, from the
bottom to the top.
[Illustration: FIG. 44.]
[Illustration: FIG. 45.]
CLOTHS WOVEN BY TAPPETS.
Among the cloths woven on tappets there are twills, cloths in which
a figure is woven diagonally across the cloth by raising the healds
consecutively. They are in large variety, being woven on three shafts
upwards and not confined to the lifting of a single heald at each pick;
as in some cloths two or three out of a larger number may be raised,
but the same number is up at every pick, although moving one end or
more at each pick. A serge is a modification of a simple twill woven
in this manner. Fig. 44 represents a 4-shaft twill rising one in four,
while Fig. 45 shows a 4-end twill rising two in four, called a denim,
swansdown, or cashmere twill. The satin weave is a broken twill--that
is, instead of lifting consecutively at each pick, an end, or in some
cases two ends, are passed over, as shown in Fig. 39 (sateen). The ends
are lifted in this order: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. A 5-stave, showing a weft
satin, is the standard for _sateen_. The satin or broken twill applies
to any number of twill staves--_e.g._, a 12-stave satin, passing 4 ends
over, lifts 1, 6, 11, 4, 9, 2, 7, 12, 5, 10, 3, 8.
A perfect satin never shows contiguous ends lifting together, as such
would give a “spotty” appearance. As almost all the weft shows at one
side of the cloth, the parallelism of the threads gives to this weave
its well-known lustre, but unless fine yarns and reed with heavy pick
are used a very frail structure is the resultant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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