Constitutionals are generally made on 8 shafts; yarns, 30/2 fold twist;
16’s to 20’s weft; 120 to 140 picks to a quarter inch; 36 to 44 reed,
Stockport; 31 inches wide, 100 yards long. Cables are on 10 and 12
shafts. Thicksets are on 6 ends and 9 picks, 30 inches wide; 30 to 44
reed, Stockport; 90 to 120 picks to quarter inch; 14’s twist, 22’s
weft. In imitating skins of animals the bull-hide weave is resorted
to either for beaver or lambskin finish; woven on 8 ends and 8 picks.
Moleskin is a smooth, solid cloth, and, before finishing, shows a very
slight longitudinal rib which distinguishes it from the cotton velvets,
which have a transverse rib. Moleskin is often called velveteen,
although not correctly so; really, velveteens are the cotton weft pile
velvets previously described.
These classes of cloth are woven with the non-positive or drag take-up
motion, which draws forward the cloth as it is knocked up by the slay.
A catch is raised by the rocking shaft of the loom, and actuates by a
ratchet worm and wheel the cloth roller. The catch is only weighted
sufficiently to draw the cloth forward when it is knocked up, thus not
acting when no weft is in the loom.
There is a heavy cloth woven from coarse (waste) yarns named cotton
blankets or cotton flannel. This fabric passes through a raising
machine, in which its surface is scratched by pointed steel teeth. It
is exported chiefly.
Double cloth may be woven by tappets, but as it is more frequently done
in the dobby, we will consider it in connection with that machine; the
same may be said of some spots, handkerchiefs, and other goods.
DOBBIES.
These shedding motions, in principle, perhaps, bear more relation to
the jacquard than to the tappets, but are included in the same chapter
as the last in consequence of their frequent association in the same
shed of looms, both being adapted for stave work.
The dobby, for very many classes of fancy cotton cloth, has gained a
reputation as a good shedding motion, and is well worthy the attention
of a student of this branch of industry. Its capacity is superior to
tappets, extending to 40 shafts, and over two hundred picks to the
round in some makes.
The machine is fixed above the loom, Plate VII., giving a direct lift
to the healds, which are kept down by springs or dead weights.
[Illustration: FIG. 48.--KEIGHLEY DOBBY.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account