In this system two sets of cards are employed, all the odd picks on
one cylinder and the even ones on the other--thus, the cylinders
only revolve at half the speed, causing less vibration and giving an
increase of 20 picks per minute. If requisite, this machine can also be
arranged as a compound or cross-border machine, carrying two sets of
cards of different patterns, only one set in use at once, while, by
pulling a handle, the other set can be actuated instead, so as to weave
an entirely different pattern in the cloth--_e.g._, in the heading of a
tablecloth, shawl, or handkerchief.
[Illustration: FIG. 65. DOUBLE-ACTION JACQUARD, DOUBLE CYLINDER.]
TIES.
There are two arrangements of the machine--the London arrangement being
best, in which case the cards and card race are at the loom side and in
better view. Fig. 62 shows this system. There is, however, more strain
on the harness, as the short rows of hooks are at right angles to the
short rows in the cumber board, thus:--
[Illustration: FIG. 66.]
In the Norwich arrangement, the machine is placed so that the cards
come over the head of the weaver or over the beam, and the short rows
of 8 in the hooks correspond with the short rows of 8 in the cumber
board, and thus the harness is kept straight.
The cumber board is a frame containing "slips"--pieces of wood with
holes bored in rows; in a 400 machine, rows of 8; in a 600, rows of
12. Through these the leashes are passed, and the warp ends almost
always drawn in straight draft through the mail eyes. Jacquard patterns
are generally varied by the lifting only, and the sole variation
corresponding to the draft in stave work is the tie-up. There are three
ties--
1. _Straight._--In this each hook has one end only attached to it, and
the tie is as under. The rectangle represents the needle board; the
dots, the needles; and the numbers, the end to which the hook on the
needle is attached.
[Illustration: FIG. 67.]
Nos. 1 to 8 will be in the first row of the cumber board to the
left-hand side of the cloth.
2. _A Lay-over Tie_ (the commonest).--It is the same thing, except
that two or more patterns are woven in the width of the cloth, say
three. Then three ends would be attached to each neck cord, and in a
400 machine 1200 ends would be used. The cumber board plan would be
repeated thrice. For example, a pattern on 9 hooks--
[Illustration: FIG. 68.]
Fig. 62 shows a portion of a lay-over tie, the ends attached to the
first row of hooks being in the first row in the cumber board, and the
pattern being completed on 400 ends; the 401’s, etc., are attached to
the first, etc.
3. _A Centred Tie._--When a pattern of 815 ends is in two equal and
balanced portions, the middle end of the cloth is tied to the hook at
the right side, and two ends to every other hook, the pattern thus
being woven on 408 hooks, _e.g._--
[Illustration: FIG. 69.]
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