May run transversely, and are then formed by coloured or vari-counted
yarns, or a series of spots in colour may be shown on the face of the
cloth, a stripe of extra weft being shown at the back of the cloth and
brought through to the face as required. In these cases some system
of manipulating extra shuttles carrying the different wefts must be
adopted.
CHECKS.
The third class with which this chapter more especially deals is the
checked cloth--ginghams, Oxford and Harvard shirtings, tape checks,
satin checks, etc. These are all formed by combining warp stripes with
weft stripes of corresponding colour and extent, thus forming squares
of colour on the fabric. These patterns may be formed in endless
variety of colour, weave, or length.
In ginghams, the colours used are often four or five in number--say
20 pink ends, 2 black, 6 white, 2 black, 6 white, 6 black, 6 white, 2
black, 6 white, 2 black = 58 ends in the warp pattern, while the picks
of weft are in the same colours, number, and order. In the larger
patterns the number of ends and picks may get into the hundreds. Fine
counts are often used.
In shirtings of heavy material for the home cotton and union material
trade, smaller patterns are commoner, as they are also in all the
“zephyr” class of goods--such, for instance, as shirting, warping 12
white 24’s, 2 red 20’s, 12 white 24’s, 2 blue 20’s; weft same; weave,
4-end cashmere twill.
In white yarns, satin checks may be made with satin stripes on a plain
ground, the satin ends being “cramped” in the reed, and the picks being
inserted in other yarn of special spinning.
Tape checks are similar, excepting that the weave is plain all through.
These one-colour checks must not be confused with the crossovers and
the satin or other checks formed by the same weft, but heavier in pick
at places.
Handkerchiefs in colour have the appearance of a large check, but
when the coloured headings are far removed it is advisable to change
shuttles by hand, as the chain for the drop box would be too long. Some
check looms, however, carry contrivances for stopping the motion of the
chain when the body of the handkerchief, shawl, towel, etc., is being
woven, this being a very suitable system. In case of changing by hand a
measuring motion is attached to the take-up roller to stop the loom at
the place for heading.
THE DROP-BOX LOOM.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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