Country Rambles, and Manchester Walks and Wild Flowers: Being Rural Wanderings in Cheshire, Lancashire, Derbyshire, and YorkshireGrindon, Leo H. (Leo Hartley)
History
Country Rambles, and Manchester Walks and Wild Flowers: Being Rural Wanderings in Cheshire, Lancashire, Derbyshire, and Yorkshire
Grindon, Leo H. (Leo Hartley)
England -- Description and travel; Natural history -- England -- Manchester
After Strines, from near which place there is another way to Cobden
Edge, next, if travelling by train, we get to New Mills, and before
long to Chapel-en-le-Frith, once again a point for new beginning,
since it is here that we start for Castleton. This is a jaunt purely
for pedestrians, and for vehicles not unwilling to linger on the way,
being one long climb, from which even steam, that, like Lord Chatham,
"tramples upon impossibilities," for the present seems to shrink.
England furnishes few such walks as this one from Chapel to Castleton,
the concluding part in particular, by the ancient bridle-path, through
the Windgates, or "Winnats,"--crags rising upon each side to a height
so vast that at times we seem absolutely shut in. The hugeness and
the loneliness of this wonderful chasm, the bare grey slopes and
bluffs of projecting rock relieved only by the presence of a few
sheep, powerfully recall the great passes amid the mountains of the
distant north. Once, however, it must have been comparatively well
trodden, the Winnats, up to about eighty years ago, having been the
sole thoroughfare from Chapel into Hope Dale. The high-road now curls
round by the foot of Mam Tor, or the "Shivering Mountain," so called
because of the continual dribbling away upon one side of the loose
material of which this singular pile chiefly consists. The apex of
Mam Tor is one thousand three hundred and fifty feet above the sea,
yet so great is the elevation of all the surrounding country that it
seems quite inconsiderable. Everywhere hereabouts, in fact throughout
the journey, after leaving Chapel, a remarkable negative feature of
the scenery is the absence of water. Plenty of the little recesses are
here that remind us of those afar where moisture drips and sparkles
on green moss. But we look in vain for the slightest trickling
movement. There are none of the little springs which ordinarily upon
the mountain-side seem longing for the time when they shall become
cascades. In Lancashire a pass like the Winnats would have had a
splashing and plentiful stream, or at all events would remind us of a
Palestine wady. It is further remarkable that upon these hills there
is no heather, nor is there a single plant of either whortleberry or
bracken. The great attraction at Castleton consists in the caverns.
The Blue-john mine should be visited in order to learn what stalactite
drapery means; but the best part of the "Peak-cavern" is the vestibule,
open to the daylight. Pushing into the interior, the vast altitude of
one small portion, revealed for a moment by means of fireworks, no
doubt has a kind of sublimity. Still there is nothing to please, unless
it be pleasure to stand in a dark inferno that seems no part of our own
world, and which can scarcely be entered without a feeling of dismay.
The ruins of Peveril Castle, and the fine old Norman arch in Castleton
church are both very interesting to the archæologist. The position of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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