Being perfectly satisfied that their prayers are duly registered in the
Court of Heaven, the worthy couple and their brood, who, by-the-way,
have been staring all the time, with eyes as big as halfpence, at the
gorgeous robes of Our Lady of the Cobre, flock out of church into the
broad, sunny plaza, where, although it is only six o'clock a.m.
(everything in Cuba is done at an unearthly hour on account of the
heat), the Procession is already beginning to form, so as to be over
before High Mass begins. Bless me, how magnificent it all is! So much
better done than in the days of the old Cura, a dreadful old person,
concerning whom there were so many queer stories. Since our blessed
Pope, Leo XIII., has come to the throne, things _have_ changed for the
better.
First come the confraternities of the Precious Blood and of Our Lady of
the Cobre, all very decently dressed, the blacks and the whites mixed
up, on a footing of perfect equality, holding candles in their hands,
without any distinction of caste or colour. Then the Children of Mary,
not a few of them dressed up as Saints,--St Agnes with her lamb, St John
with sheep-skin wound round his chubby limbs, St Francis as a little
monk, and so forth. And lastly, the priests in their showiest vestments,
and the choir boys with their incense, and the climax of the function,
the Angel,--that is to say, a chariot drawn by two white oxen, whose
sweeping horns are tipped with gold foil, in which, on a throne made of
leaves and artificial roses, sits a little girl attired as an angel with
a flaxen wig, for in tropical countries, where mortals are generally
black-haired, all Celestial beings are supposed to be blondes. The
angel's wings are made of coloured bits of paper, cut in the shape of
feathers, arranged with a distinct eye to artistic effect. When the
angel and her chariot arrive in front of the Church the priests bring
forth the statue of Our Lady of the Cobre, and place it under a gorgeous
canopy, where it remains, whilst the terrestrial angel recites a _loja_
or sonnet, in honour of the Blessed Lady. Then the Benediction is given,
all the motley crowd drops on its knees, and afterwards everybody
hurries into the Church to hear Mass, and so the religious part of the
fiesta ends. Later in the day after the mid-day siesta, we shall find
the Guajiro at the cockpit, which women are prohibited by law from
attending, so that the Guajira will be discovered sitting outside the
village fonda, gossiping with her cousins and friends, and sipping
tamarind water, whilst her numerous progeny disport themselves in the
middle of the square, where there is a sort of fair in progress. If the
favourite cock wins,--and it must surely win on this special
occasion,--the Guajiro will be in the best of humours, and he and his
wife will dance the Creola until the small hours, for a Cuban dances
even when he is half-dead. Long before the sun rises our friends will
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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