The crowning glory of Nassau is the unrivalled bay, with its
enchantingly clear, crystal water. Many a happy day have I spent,
sailing round the pretty shores of this pleasant island. We usually had
for "captain" a certain remarkable darkie, by name "Cap'en" Tannyson
Stump, one of those sable worthies you read about, full of drollery,
shrewd and witty withal, and a capital sailor into the bargain. The
Cap'en is reputed wealthy, for he is a great favourite with the
visitors, and, moreover, is considered, by the inhabitants of Grant
Town, the greatest "dissentin' minister" on the island. Amongst other
natural wonders the "Cap'en" took us to see was the "sea garden." I wish
Victor Hugo could have studied it, for possibly he might have been
tempted to describe it, in his vivid language, as a pendant to his
sea-monster, the devil-fish of the "Toilers of the Sea." Thus should we
have had a glowing word picture of the beautiful instead of the
hideous--the paradise of the sea, and not its hell. They give you a box
with a glass bottom to look through. You put it over the side of the
boat, and dip it beneath the waves. Lo! you behold the garden of the
sea-nymphs, the home of Aphrodite. Beneath you, seen through the
pellucid waters of this vast aquarium, is a lovely sea-garden, full of
every imaginable delicate-tinted sea-flower. Some are pale pink, others
light yellow, and some brown as leaves in autumn, massed round the vivid
purple and scarlet sea-anemones, which cling to the summits of beds of
pearly coral. Here purple sea-fans wave gently to and fro. There are
groves of trumpet sponges, and beds of marine blossoms of all kinds and
shapes. Fish as brilliant as hummingbirds--red, blue, metallic-green,
and orange--peep knowingly in and out of the branches of this strange
submarine vegetation, which is crossed and recrossed in all directions
by pathways of sparkling, silver gravel. Nothing more fascinating, more
fairy-like, can be imagined. You expect at any moment to see Venus or
one of her nymphs--or, perchance, old Edward's Sable Aphrodite--rise
suddenly to the surface from this abode of cool delights.
Involuntarily the world-renowned description of the bottom of the sea
was brought to my mind,--
"Methought I saw ...
Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl,
Inestimable stones, unvalu'd jewels,
All scatter'd in the bottom of the sea.
Some lay in dead men's skulls, and, in those holes,
Where eyes did once inhabit, there were crept
(As 'twere in scorn of eyes) reflecting gems,
That woo'd the slimy bottom of the deep,
And mock'd the dead bones that lay scatter'd by."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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