Church has always, in Latin countries, been the scene of a good deal of
quiet flirtation, and I remember one Sunday morning, in the Cathedral of
Havana, being initiated by a friend into the mysteries of fan language.
We watched an extremely good-looking and richly apparelled young lady,
who, after she had said her preliminary devotions, looked round her as
if seeking somebody. Presently she opened her fan very wide, which, as
the Cuban who was with us at the time assured us, meant "I see you."
Then she half closed it; this indicated "Come and see me." Four fingers
were next placed upon the upper half of the closed fan, signifying, "At
half-past four." The fan was next dropped upon the floor, which, we were
told, signified the fact that the lady would be alone. A Havanese lady,
who is expert in this system of signalling, can talk by the hour with
the help of her fan, and of a bunch of variously coloured flowers, each
of which has some special meaning.
Amongst so pleasure-loving a people as the Cubans, public amusements
hold a far more prominent place than they do in any of the United
States, with, perhaps, the sole exception of New Orleans, and the
carnival at Havana was at one time the most brilliant in the Americas.
For many years, however, its glories have been declining, and during the
last few decades the upper and middle classes have taken scant part in
the festivities. I can remember, however, many years ago, seeing the
famous ribbon dance performed by people of quality in the open streets.
A gaily-dressed youth walked in front of the company, holding a pole,
from which floated a number of coloured ribbons, which the various
couples held in their hands, and threaded into a kind of plait as they
moved gracefully round the leader of this _al fresco_ cotillon. It was a
very pretty sight to see hundreds of masqueraders parading the streets,
engaged in this graceful pastime, and each band accompanied by a group
of musicians. Throughout the carnival the negroes are allowed to mingle
with the white population in all festivities, and even in the great
gala procession of carriages, which passes round the gaily decorated
city during three successive afternoons, the negroes' donkey tandems and
brilliantly draped waggons are permitted to take their places among the
equipages of their masters. The negroes formerly went about the streets
masked and disguised, and as they formed one-third of the population,
there was no lack of variety of costume, but neither bon-bons nor flower
throwing had any place in this somewhat formal pageant. The Cubans
evidently do not appreciate cut blossoms, for you rarely, if ever, see a
bouquet in their houses, although their gardens simply blaze with every
sort of flowers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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