If our spectator will now descend from his giddy height, and will
accompany us among the busy haunts of men, we will attempt to point out to
him whence those innumerable commodities, which he has seen pouring into
the town, have been obtained, the chief marts to which they are consigned,
and the manner in which they are distributed from house to house. Had
London like Paris its _octroi_, the difficulty of our task would be
limited to the mere display of official figures, but, thanks to a free
policy, we have no such means of getting at strictly accurate estimates,
and must therefore content ourselves with the results of patient inquiry
among the foremost carriers--the railway companies--aided by such other
information as we have been able to procure. For the sake of convenience,
and of sequence, let us imagine that the principal daily meal is
proceeding, and, according to the order of the courses, we will endeavour
to trace the various edibles to their source--the fish to its sea--the
beast to its pasture--the wild animal to its lair--the game to its
cover--and the fruit to its orchard; to point out how they are netted,
fattened, bagged, gathered, and conveyed to their ultimate
destination--the _great red lane_ of London humanity. Let us begin with
fish, and that unrivalled fish-market which all the world is aware rears
its head by London Bridge.
Those who remember old Billingsgate, with its tumble-down wharf, and dock
half choked with corruption and oyster-shells--a dirty remnant of the days
of Elizabeth--will enter with pleasure Mr. Bunning's new market. Through
its Italian colonnade are seen the masts of the fishing smacks, and the
brown wharves of the opposite side--a pleasing picture, which instantly
fixes the artistic eye. The busy scene within the market between the hours
of five and seven in the morning, is one of the marvels of the metropolis.
Billingsgate is the only wholesale fish-market in London, and it may
therefore be imagined how great must be the business transacted within its
walls. Of old, nine-tenths of the supply came by way of the river, the
little that came by land being conveyed from the coast, at great expense,
in four-horse vans. Now the railways are day by day supplanting smacks,
and in many cases steamers; for by means of its iron arms, London, whilst
its millions slumber, grasps the produce of every sea that beats against
our island coast, and ere they have uprisen it is drawn to a focus in this
central mart. Thus every night in the season the hardy fishermen of
Yarmouth catch a hundred tons (12,081 yearly), principally herring, which,
by means of the Eastern Counties Railway, are next morning at
Billingsgate. The South-Western Railway sends up annually, with the same
speed, 4,000 tons of mackerel and other fish, the gatherings of the south
coast. The North Western collects over night the "catch" from Ireland,
Scotland, and the north-east coast of England, and adds to the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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