Curiosities of Science, Past and Present: A Book for Old and YoungTimbs, John
Science
Curiosities of Science, Past and Present: A Book for Old and Young
Timbs, John
Science
Where the river Shirhawti, between Bombay and Cape Comorin, falls into
the Gulf of Arabia, it is about one-fourth of a mile in width, and in
the rainy season some thirty feet in depth. This immense body of water
rushes down a rocky slope 300 feet, at an angle of 45°, at the bottom
of which it makes a perpendicular plunge of 850 feet into a black and
dismal abyss, with a noise like the loudest thunder. The whole descent
is therefore 1150 feet, or several times that of Niagara; but the
volume of water in the latter is somewhat larger than in the former.
CAUSE OF WAVES.
The friction of the wind combines with the tide in agitating the
surface of the ocean, and, according to the theory of undulations,
each produces its effect independently of the other. Wind, however,
not only raises waves, but causes a transfer of superficial water
also. Attraction between the particles of air and water, as well
as the pressure of the atmosphere, brings its lower stratum into
adhesive contact with the surface of the sea. If the motion of the
wind be parallel to the surface, there will still be friction, but the
water will be smooth as a mirror; but if it be inclined, in however
small a degree, a ripple will appear. The friction raises a minute
wave, whose elevation protects the water beyond it from the wind,
which consequently impinges on the surface at a small angle: thus
each impulse, combining with the other, produces an undulation which
continually advances.--_Mrs. Somerville’s Physical Geography._
RATE AT WHICH WAVES TRAVEL.
Professor Bache states, as one of the effects of an earthquake at
Simoda, on the island of Niphon, in Japan, that the harbour was first
emptied of water, and then came in an enormous wave, which again
receded and left the harbour dry. This occurred several times. The
United-States self-acting tide-gauge at San Francisco, which records
the rise of the tide upon cylinders turned by clocks, showed that at
San Francisco, 4800 miles from the scene of the earthquake, the first
wave arrived twelve hours and sixteen minutes after it had receded from
the harbour of Simoda. It had travelled across the broad bosom of the
Pacific Ocean at the rate of six miles and a half a minute, and arrived
on the shores of California: the first wave being seven-tenths of a
foot in height, and lasting for about half an hour, followed by seven
lesser waves, at intervals of half an hour each.
The velocity with which a wave travels depends on the depth of the
ocean. The latest calculations for the Pacific Ocean give a depth of
from 14,000 to 18,000 fathoms. It is remarkable how the estimates of
the ocean’s depth have grown less. Laplace assumed it at ten miles,
Whewell at 3·5, while the above estimate brings it down to two miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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