Customs and Fashions in Old New EnglandEarle, Alice Morse
History
Customs and Fashions in Old New England
Earle, Alice Morse
New England -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
Though simplicity of dress was one of the cornerstones of the Puritan
Church, the individual members did not yield their personal vanity
without many struggles. As soon as the colonies rallied from the first
years of poverty and, above all, of comparative isolation, and a sequent
tide of prosperity and wealth came rolling in, the settlers began to
pick up in dress, to bedeck themselves, to send eagerly to the mother
country for new petticoats and doublets that, when proudly donned, did
not seem simple and grave enough for the critical eyes of the omnipotent
New England magistrates and ministers. Hence restraining and simplifying
sumptuary laws were passed. In 1634, in view of some new fashions which
were deemed by these autocrats to be immodest and extravagant, this
order was sent forth by the General Court:
"That no person either man or woman shall hereafter make or buy any
apparel, either woolen or silk or linen with any lace on it,
silver, gold, or thread, under the penalty of forfeiture of said
clothes. Also that no person either man or woman shall make or buy
any slashed clothes other than one slash in each sleeve and another
in the back; also all cut-works, embroideries, or needlework cap,
bands, and rails are forbidden hereafter to be made and worn under
the aforesaid penalty; also all gold or silver girdles, hatbands,
belts, ruffs, beaverhats are prohibited to be bought and worn
hereafter."
Liberty was thriftily given the planters, however, to "wear out such
apparel as they are now provided of except the immoderate great sleeves,
slashed apparel, immoderate great rails and long wings," which latter
were apparently beyond Puritanical endurance.
In 1639 "immoderate great breeches, knots of ryban, broad shoulder bands
and rayles, silk ruses, double ruffles and capes" were added to the list
of tabooed garments.
In 1651 the General Court again expressed its "utter detestation and
dislike that men or women of meane condition, education and callings
should take uppon them the garbe of gentlemen by the wearinge of gold or
silver lace or buttons or poynts at their knees, to walke in great
boots, or women of the same rank to wear silke or tiffany hoodes or
scarfes."
Many persons were "presented" under this law; Puritan men were just as
fond of finery as were Puritan women. Walking in great boots proved
alluring to an illegal degree, just as did wearing silk and tiffany
hoods. But Puritan women fought hard and fought well for their fine
garments. In Northampton thirty-eight women were brought up at one time
before the court in 1676 for their "wicked apparell." One young miss,
Hannah Lyman, of Northampton, was prosecuted for "wearing silk in a
fflaunting manner, in an offensive way and garb, not only before but
when she stood presented, not only in Ordinary but Extraordinary times."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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