Customs and Fashions in Old New EnglandEarle, Alice Morse
History
Customs and Fashions in Old New England
Earle, Alice Morse
New England -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
Pompions, and what Higginson called squantersquashes, Josselyn
squontersquoshes, Roger Williams askutasquashes, Wood isquoukersquashes,
and we clip to squashes, grew in vast plenty. The Indians dried the
pompions on strings for winter use, as is still done in New England farm
communities. Madam Knight had them frequently offered to her on her
journey--"pumpkin sause" and "pumpkin bred." "We would have eat a morsel
ourselves, but the Pumpkin & Indian-mixt bread had such an Aspect."
Pumpkin bread is made in Connecticut to this day. For pumpkin "sause" we
have a two-centuries-old receipt, which was given by Josselyn, in 1671,
in his "New England Rarities," and called by him even at that day "an
Ancient New England Standing-dish."
"The Housewives manner is to slice them when ripe and cut them into
Dice, and so fill a pot with them of two or three Gallons and stew
them upon a gentle fire the whole day. And as they sink they fill
again with fresh Pompions not putting any liquor to them and when
it is stir'd enough it will look like bak'd Apples, this Dish
putting Butter to it and a little Vinegar with some Spice as Ginger
which makes it tart like an Apple, and so serve it up to be eaten
with fish or flesh."
This must be a very good "sause," and a very good receipt when once it
is clear to your mind which of them--the housewives or the
pompions--sink and are to fill and be filled in a pot, and stirred and
stewed and put liquor to.
In an old book which I own, which was used by many generations of New
England cooks, I find this "singular good" rule to make a "Pumpion Pye:"
"Take about halfe a pound of Pumpion and slice it, a handful of
Tyme, a little Rosemary, Parsley and Sweet Marjoram slipped off the
stalkes, and chop them smal, then take Cinamon, Nutmeg, Pepper, and
six Cloves and beat them, take ten Eggs and beat them, then mix
them, and beat them altogether, and put in as much Sugar as you
think fit, then fry them like a froiz, after it is fryed, let it
stand til it be cold, then fill your Pye, take sliced Apples thinne
rounde-wayes, and lay a row of the Froiz and layer of Apples with
Currans betwixt the layer while your Pye is fitted, and put in a
good deal of sweet butter before you close it, when the pye is
baked take six yelks of Eggs, some White-wine or Vergis, and make a
Caudle of this, but not too thicke, cut up the Lid and put it in,
stir them wel together whilst the Eggs and Pompions be not
perceived and so serve it up."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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