Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
Next morning I sent on my dragoman and horse-boy to Limasol, with
orders to try and get lodgings for me in the Franciscan cloisters,
and then rode forward with Hussein on the way to St. Nicholas. After
about an hour and a half’s hard riding, we reached the south portion
of the peninsula. The spot was a bare, open plain, and the water by
which it was surrounded, full of reeds. We had scarcely reached our
destination, than torrents of rain began to fall, and we were forced
to take shelter under a ruined wall, standing our horses in front of
us, to prevent our being literally washed away. Happily, the storm was
only of short duration, and the ground was soon dry again, and we could
continue our investigations. The little church of St. Nicholas, which
was evidently built in the fifteenth century, is in good condition, and
stands in the midst of the ruined abbey, the rectangular walls of which
surround it. On closely examining the church it was easy to trace the
solid foundations of the ancient temple, on the site of which it had
been built. Rows of broken pillars, some extending along the hinder
walls, indicated what had once been a covered walk for the monks. Over
the doorway was a huge marble tablet, on which five coats-of-arms were
chiselled. The ancient temple which preceded the abbey had evidently
been very extensive, and I could trace its foundations for some feet
beyond the cloister walls. In one corner stood what had been an altar,
and near it a very deep cistern. The old walls here, which are as hard
as iron, had been taken in large masses to form, evidently, the abbey
walls. Marble pillars lay in all directions, but I saw none as fine as
the two that had attracted my attention in the inn yard at Kolossin. No
trace of the abbey garden was left, beyond some olive-trees, the roots
of which were buried quite impartially under the ancient and mediæval
walls. A few goats were wandering about, and gave a touch of animation
to the melancholy and deserted scene. The water about this peninsula is
as rich in salt as is that near Larnaka.
I mounted a neighbouring eminence, but could see no trace of life.
Not a ship, or boat, appeared upon the bosom of the sea beyond, and I
could not help asking myself, as I descended, if this whole country was
destined to remain desolate for ever, or if we could hope that, under
a new government, it might attain fresh vitality, and again take its
place as one of the animated spots of the earth.
The road from the ruins of the temple and monastery upon the southern
peninsula, a distance of about three and a half hours’ ride, winds
around the salt marsh, and then turns towards the sea. Limasol is
more European in its appearance than any other town in Cyprus. Houses
built of clay and stone predominate here, more especially in the part
inhabited by the Turks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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