Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
After about two hours’ riding, we reached what appeared to me to be
the ruins of a church, standing close to the shore, and beside these
a heap of ancient hewn stones, lying ready to be shipped for Port
Saïd, where they were to be employed in the construction of a new
harbour. On our left rose a mountain, with fields of corn extending to
a considerable distance up its slopes. My dragoman was most desirous
to ride on, without my lingering to investigate the spot, and when
I assured him that this mount was certainly the site of the ancient
Amathus, positively asserted that not a trace of anything was to be
seen. I believe the rascal was afraid he should again get more climbing
than suited his indolence, for he declared in piteous accents that
it would take us fully an hour to reach the summit. By this time,
however, I knew the gentleman I had to deal with, and persisted in
my determination to make the attempt. Our road was certainly of the
steepest, but the way was short, and in about fifteen minutes we were
at the top. Much did I rejoice that I had persevered in my own course,
for before me lay the spot that I had sought. The mount was indeed
a natural fortress of the first order, and must have afforded most
secure refuse during the disturbed periods of the island’s history.
On the side facing the sea, by which we had ascended, I could trace
the foundations of an ancient rampart. On the other three sides, such
protection had been quite unnecessary, as the rock rose sheer, and
almost perpendicularly from the fruitful valley at its base. Here had
once stood a large city, founded by the Phœnicians, which is still
called in Hebrew, Hamath, or the fortified city. The building appears
to have covered the eminence, and from thence extended to the shores of
the sea. Tacitus, and other ancient writers, speak of Amathus as the
oldest city in Cyprus; at the present day, it may be described as the
one of which the traces have been most ruthlessly destroyed. With the
exception of the shattered pieces of a gigantic vase, of which I shall
speak presently, and the ruined church upon the coast, no trace is left
of its former greatness. From the top of the mount to the very shores
of the sea, every sign has been removed, beyond that afforded by heaps
of broken stones and potsherds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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