Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
“The ruins of Famagusta are not grand and imposing, yet they are most
beautiful and touching. It is impossible to see the still existing
walls of many of its fine mediæval churches, with frescoes plainly
visible in the interiors—here a rectory, there evidences of elegant
homes—without a feeling of intense sadness. Only two out of the three
hundred churches, which are said to have existed in Famagusta, were
left standing. The principal one, formerly the cathedral and now
used as a mosque, is paved with mortuary marble slabs engraved with
the names and arms of Italian noblemen, once buried beneath them,
whose bones were exhumed, and thrown into the sea, by order of the
fanatical and ferocious Mustapha Pacha, the day after he captured the
city. The other church, used as a granary and a stable by the Turks,
contains also a few tombstones, now all worn out by the horses’ hoofs.
There I discovered an inscription, recording the day on which, by the
abdication of Katharine Cornaro, the Venetians became the rulers of
Cyprus.
“Within the city walls resides the caimakan[15] of the province of
Carpass, with the Cadi of Famagusta, and the usual mejilis. There is
also a military governor of the fortress, and a company of artillery.
This governor resides with his troops in a small fort overlooking the
sea, and flanked by a large round tower called by the natives ‘Torre
del Moro’ (Tower of the Moor). Tradition asserts that in this tower
were the head-quarters of the Venetian Lord-Lieutenant of Cyprus,
Cristoforo Moro, during the years 1506 to 1508. In the latter year,
on the 22nd of October, Cristoforo Moro was recalled from Cyprus, and
returned to Venice; and from documents which I have been allowed to
peruse, it would appear that this man was married four times, and that
his private life was not very exemplary. This Cristoforo Moro was the
‘Othello’ of Shakespeare.
“The fortress of Famagusta contained some of the worst criminals of
the Turkish Empire. Many of them are condemned for life, others are
sentenced to from fifteen to twenty-five years’ imprisonment, and all
are heavily shackled.”
The harbour of Famagusta would be excellent, if it were cleared of
the filth with which it is blocked up; but at present it can only
accommodate a few small vessels.
Limasol, on the south coast, is the most European town in the island,
and has a good harbour; but the old parts of the town are a heap of
ruins. It is still of considerable importance, and is the chief place
of export for the wines of the country, which are much in demand in the
Levant. The surrounding country is rich in fruit trees, of which the
carob-tree is the most conspicuous.
Near the town formerly stood the Commandery of the Knights Templars
(Commandery of Kolossi), extending from Mount Olympus to Baffo and
Limasol.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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