Cyprus: Historical and DescriptiveLöher, Franz von
History
Cyprus: Historical and Descriptive
Löher, Franz von
Cyprus -- Description and travel; Cyprus -- History
At this season, the country was saturated with the late snows and
winter rains, but in summer, doubtless, these numerous sources rapidly
dry up under the burning sun, and the earth again becomes scorched and
arid. From the eminence upon which I stood, I could see innumerable
streamlets coursing down the sides of the mountains, which extended
their undulating brown-tinted declivities as far as the eye could
reach. In the distance, on our right hand, we saw the monastery of
Kikku (the richest and most extensive cloister in the island, and the
very stronghold of Cyprian brotherhoods), towering like a pyramid into
the air. This monastery is four or five leagues from Troaditissa, and
is perched so high on the upper ridge of the mountains as to be very
difficult of access. This does not prevent numerous pilgrims visiting
her shrine, which possesses a very valuable and ancient picture of the
Madonna.
Towards evening we reached the village of Panagia, and again found
all the inhabitants assembled around their church; on this occasion,
however, old and young were enjoying a little social intercourse. The
men and women chatting and laughing, whilst the youngsters sported
around under the shadow of the trees, and lent an animated charm to the
scene. Again I could not fail to remark that almost every kind of fruit
tree flourishes, and bears good fruit in a wild state. Mulberries,
apricots, almonds, and cherries were here in great profusion.
Our arrival at the monastery of Chrysorogiatissa, which was delayed
until after dark, did not appear to please the worthy brothers. Monks
and servants were all in bed; but after much knocking and delay, a
monk and negro appeared, who admitted us, and brought out some bread
and bony goats’ flesh for our delectation. Next morning when I left my
hard and comfortless bed, I found that both cloister and mountain were
enveloped in a thick white mist. This monastery, which for size ranks
next to Kikku, contains fifteen monks, and employs fifteen servants,
who cultivate part of the land belonging to the monastery, the rest is
let out on lease. All the Cyprian cloisters are richly endowed, and
are required to pay but few taxes to Government; but in spite of this
wealth, these religious houses can bear no comparison with the abbeys
of England. The church, which reminded me of the archiepiscopal chapel
at Nikosia, has a fine figure of the Saviour, with nimbus, and right
arm and hand of silver (the latter is raised as though in the act of
blessing). Among the representations in wood carving, I noticed Eve
holding the apple, and Adam with a fine moustache.
As the mist disappeared I was able to observe the scene that lay
beneath me. The cloister stands back towards the south upon the highest
range, and commands a magnificent view. This monastery was formerly
called Rogio.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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