"In the morning we were routed out of bed by the shouts of the
sailors and I went on board ship without supper and without
sleep. We reached Strassburg at about nine o'clock in the
forenoon and were pretty well entertained there, especially
as Schürer furnished the wine. A part of the fraternity was
on hand and soon they all came to welcome us.... Thence we
went on to Speier by horse and saw never a shadow of a soldier
though dreadful rumours were abroad. My English horse was just
about used up and scarcely got to Speier. That scoundrel of a
blacksmith had so abused him that both his ears were burned
with a hot iron. At Speier I took myself quietly out of the
inn and went to my friend Maternus near by. There the dean, a
man of learning and culture, entertained me for two days with
great kindness. We met there by chance Hermann Busch. Thence we
journeyed by carriage to Worms and Mainz. There happened into
the same carriage a certain Ulrich, a secretary of the emperor,
whose surname was Farnbul--as who should say, 'Fern-Hill.' He
paid me the greatest attention on the journey and at Mainz would
not suffer me to go to the common inn, but took me to the house
of a certain canon and saw me to the boat when I started off.
The weather was very agreeable and the voyage well enough only
that the sailors tried to make it longer than was necessary, and
the smell of the horses was unpleasant....
"At Boppard I was walking on the river-bank while they were
locking up a boat and someone who knew me gave my name to
the toll-collector. This man's name was Christopher and, I
believe, Cinicampius, or in the vulgar tongue, Eschenfeld. It
was marvellous how the fellow jumped for joy. He dragged me to
his house and there on a little table, among his toll-receipts,
lay the writings of Erasmus. He cries out that he is a blessed
man, calls his wife, his children, and all his friends. To
the clamorous boatmen he sends two jugs of wine and when they
burst out into new clamours he sends some more, and promises
that on their return he will remit the toll because they have
brought him so great a guest. From here I was escorted as far
as Coblenz by John Flaminius, head of a convent of women there,
a man of angelic purity, of sound and sober judgment, and of
unusual learning. At Coblenz Matthias, a chaplain of the bishop,
took me to his house,--a young man, but of settled ways, of
accurate Latin learning, and thoroughly trained in the law as
well. There we had a merry supper. At Bonn the canon [one of
his fellow-travellers] left us, in order to avoid the city of
Cologne, which I also desired to avoid. My servant had, however,
gone ahead thither with the horses; there was no safe person on
the boat whom I could send after him, and I had no confidence
in the sailors. On Sunday morning before six o'clock, in dismal
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