Mexico -- History -- 1910-1946; Mexico City (Mexico) -- Social life and customs
The faces of these early bishops and priests of Mexico are
extraordinary. The life is concentrated in and between the eyes,
the foreheads are those of thinkers, the lines about the mouths,
compassionate, yet unflinching, are those of workers, and, however
different the actual structure of the faces, the expression is the
same. I found a couple of old engravings the other day, one of Las
Casas, and one of Ripalda, yellowed, stained, evidently torn out of
some old book. The tale of labors and difficulties overcome is stamped
upon their faces. Their watchword was "_Al rey infinitas tierras, y a
Dios infinitas almas_,"[36] and I can't but think that our political
slogans seem a bit shabby in comparison. Our Monroe doctrine, which
controls their destinies, our dollar diplomacy, and all the rest, make
but a poor figure.
_Evening._
Under the impression of the foundations of the Bishops of Tlaxcala,
etc., I strayed into the Biblioteca Nacional on my way home after some
errands. It is what once was one of the most beautiful churches in
Mexico, San Agustin, built at the end of the seventeenth century.
What remains of the old atrium is rather spoiled by being inclosed with
a high iron railing; but in it stands a statue of my friend Humboldt,
whose soul perceived the "splendors of this Indian world." It is a most
charming building to come upon in those busy, modern streets, where
bankers raise and lower the exchange, and the "interests" have their
visible habitats. One is thankful for every good old stone that has
been left upon another good old stone in Mexico, and the old building
has a beautiful tiled dome in the Mudejar style (Moorish-Christian),
with arabesque designs and a charming façade. The modern iron railing
is decorated with busts of the Mexican great, in early-Victorian style,
from the days of Nezahualcoyotl down to Alaman. But the beautiful
old _basso rilievo_ of San Agustin over the main door tells you
unmistakably that the ages of faith were also the ages of art.
I wrestled with the catalogues, and found they always referred me to
others of various dates, like 1872 and 1881. I spoke with several
very vague and exceedingly polite officials. I dare say my Spanish
contributed to the vagueness. The library is very rich in books
relating to the labors of the Church in New Spain, and in general of
the history of the post-Conquest period. The huge reading-room was once
the great central nave of the church, and a flood of white light pours
in through high octagonal windows. Any time any one moved or walked
there was the sound as of an army. It was the wooden floor acting in
unison with the unsurpassed acoustic qualities of the nave.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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