Mexico -- History -- 1910-1946; Mexico City (Mexico) -- Social life and customs
She has been coming for me the past three mornings in the big
presidential auto. N. and Aunt L. are thankful to see me return; they
think a bomb, aimed at the conveyance full of piety, would not be
beyond the bounds of possibility. I am sure Madame M. would do the
distance gladly on her knees, instead of in the big car; her passionate
solicitude for her husband's welfare has no limits, and she means
to compel whatever powers there be to take the kingdom of heaven
by violence, if need be. Like all people who are playing with great
chances, she is, I fancy, superstitious. She arises very early, attends
Mass, begins her day's work, and is at our house from the castle at
9.30, apparently going the rest of the day at the same high pressure.
I gather they prefer De la Barra not to return; indeed, the faces
of any darken at the mention of other possible candidates for public
favor. Jealousies and struggles of individual ambition are more evident
than struggles for principles in this most personal of all games,
Mexican politics.
There was not a hint of any political happening on her part, nor on
mine, as I got into the motor this morning. She told me about the six
children they have adopted at one time or another, according to various
exigencies; all the children too small to make an appearance, however,
on the presidential stage.
An Indian boy ran across our path and was knocked down by the auto,
just as we were going through the teeming suburb of Peralvillo. In a
moment a crowd gathered about us, giving vent to growls. We stopped
and got out of the motor. The boy, fortunately, was not injured,
and he was wearing few garments to dust. We gave him money, and the
mollified parents, pulque-eyed and battered, received him tenderly,
plus money and minus hurt, so we were able to drive on through the
soft, shimmering morning, out the broad Calzadato to Our Lady of
Guadalupe....
We came back through the old Plaza of Tlaltelolco, where the Church of
Santiago still exists, though now the yards of the National Railways
surround it, and it is used to store cotton and grain, the customs,
too, having offices there. It was formerly connected with Mexico City
by canals instead of these dusty streets, getting dustier every year,
as the volume of water decreases in the valley.
Here Cortés found the great market he described in his letter to
Charles V., and here Fray Gante taught the Indians for fifty years.
Here, too, the first Bishop of Mexico is said to have carried into
effect his unfortunate idea of gathering a pile of Aztec hieroglyphics,
on cotton, maguey, or deerskin; and piling them mountain high;
according to the historian, Ixtlilxochitl, he had them set afire. Now
there are only squalid remnants of that civilization, here and there
ancient corner-stones on which dilapidated _mesones_, lodging-houses
for men and beasts, show themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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