Mexico -- History -- 1910-1946; Mexico City (Mexico) -- Social life and customs
Madame Lefaivre and Elsie S. are sketching; all is peaceful,
sun-flooded, with much singing of birds, and the trees are dropping
solid bits of gold through their dark branches. There is a fine old
five-belled belfry that pierces the perfect sky; the top bell and one
of the next lower pair are missing (in what vagary of Mexican history
they disappeared I know not).
This was once a Carmelite monastery, and still has a wonderful garden
and a celebrated peach and pear and chabacano orchard. The wall
inclosing the orchard is so high that scarcely anything green grows
tall enough to show above it, though the mirador has a few vines
twisting about it. The wall, however, is beautiful in itself--pink,
crumbling, sun-baked, with moss and flowers and bits of cactus clinging
to it, and a fruity odor was wafted over to us as we passed on the
broken, ditch-like road with the motor at an angle of forty-five
degrees.
There is a large space, planted with live-oaks, outside the _patio_
of the church with _its_ lovely, broadly scalloped pink wall. Once
through the carved door, one is as if in a bath of sun and beauty.
Before another time-worn, carved door leading into the church stand two
straight, black, immemorial cypresses. The inside wall of the _patio_
has, here and there, an old carved coat of arms cemented into it, and
colored growing things abound. The live-oaks outside bend above the
scalloping of the walls, on which are ancient numbers above flat-carved
symbols for the "Way of the Cross."
Elsie chose a corner inside, and Madame Lefaivre is sketching outside,
so I got the guardian, who is also the administrator of the orchard
and hacienda, to unlock the church. Several gilded _Churrigueresque_
altars still remain--intricately designed, time-softened, lovely, and
on the altar steps were some charming old candlesticks, five or six
feet high, in the same lovely style of gilding and twisting. How they
have remained there during a century of suburban vicissitudes I know
not. Various saints in ecstasy, San Joaquin in special, were portrayed,
almost life-size, their garments floating, falling, blowing about,
with the special unquiet but lovely _Churrigueresque_ touch. Winged,
open-mouthed cherubim and seraphim hold up the vaulting with its wealth
of lovely, conventional motifs; throughout Mexico, in churches where
everything else is gone, one finds the out-of-reach vaultings intact.
There is a school of a sort, held in what was once the seminary behind
the church; and some barefooted, bareheaded, and otherwise scantily
clad wrestlers with the "three R's" came out from one end of the church
and passed through, followed by their teacher, a shabby, bored-looking
young Mestizo of doubtful cleanliness and dubious competency.
Calle Humboldt, _Later_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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