Mexico -- History -- 1910-1946; Mexico City (Mexico) -- Social life and customs
Everything quiet in Calle Humboldt. N. has gone to the Embassy for late
work, servants are invisible, the infant is in the "first sweet dreams
of night," and I can have an hour with you about the celebration last
night, which was most interesting.
I went rather _contre gré_. The heavens had been more than usually
lavish with their water-gifts during the afternoon, and the house was
damp and chilly. But I got into the black velvet with the gray and jet
design, so easy to don, as any black dress should be, and we were ready
when the ambassador came for us.
We passed through the brilliantly lighted and beflagged Avenida San
Francisco to the Zócalo, where an immense crowd was already assembling.
Mounted police were dashing to and fro as we passed under the "Puerta
de Honor," through which the _Corps Diplomatique_ enters on official
occasions. The huge bronze statue of Benito Juarez, still and shining,
caught the _patio_ lights. I suppose the real Benito was watching the
proceedings also from some angle, _up_ or _down_, I can't say.
We went up the broad stairway with the handsomest and reddest of
carpets, which Allart said had been bought for the _Centenario_
celebration. We entered the Sala de Espera at the top, where our
wraps were disposed of, under a huge allegorical picture of "La
Constitución." We then went through a series of really handsome
rooms in the sumptuous style; with their great proportions and high
ceilings they are most impressive. Everywhere are hung pictures of
their illustrious men, who mostly did not die in their beds--Hidalgo,
Morelos, Iturbide, Juarez, Diaz.
At one time I found myself in a huge room, and looking down upon me
was the delicate, ascetic face of Hidalgo--"other-worldliness" stamped
all over it. The scroll in his hand, proclaiming independence to
Mexico, the same kind, unfortunately, I should judge, that we were
there to celebrate, testified to the fires consuming him from the
earthly furnace of liberty and regeneration, in which he dreamed of
purifying his nation and his race. The pictures, however, are mostly
more remarkable for their size and the value of their frames than for
their artistic work.
We were received with dignity and ceremony by President de la Barra and
the members of his Cabinet. But Madero was the center of attraction as
he moved about with a dreamy, pleased expression, not unduly elated,
however. A sort of simplicity stamps all that he does. The women were
mostly in hats. Their afternoon costumes are apt to be the dressiest.
But the _Corps Diplomatique_ was _en grande toilette_. We had been
wondering, in absence of notification from the Foreign Office, what we
were to wear, but accepted Hohler's verdict that "after seven o'clock
you can't go wrong in evening togs."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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