As I entered the gate there was the usual collection of Indians of all sizes and colors, but with the same destinies. Many were passing by with their _huacales_ (crates) filled with bananas and oranges and various green things, for near by is the great fruit-market of the city. Some women were selling long plaited strings of onions, and by the gate was standing a superior-looking individual with a stick twice as high as himself, on which were stuck white, pink, and blue toy birds. Instead of abandoning hope as one goes through these portals, one finds oneself immensely expectant, one's eyes darting hither and thither in search of treasure, the eternal something for nothing! Mexico is called the land of the _sombrero_ (hat), but when I go to the _volador_ I feel it should be called the land of the candlestick. There are so many candlesticks in every variety of shape and kind, and occasionally of great beauty. [Illustration: ELIM O'SHAUGHNESSY, MEXICO, JUNE, 1911] [Illustration: MADAME LEFAIVRE, WIFE OF THE FRENCH MINISTER TO MEXICO, 1911] I was made "perfectly" happy by the discovery of two tiny bronze _braseros_, somewhat in the form of Roman lamps--such as were filled with coals and placed on tables to light cigarettes from in the old days. I also got a large engraved pulque-glass, most lovely for flowers. At one booth an experienced _vendeuse_ pulled from her rebozoed bosom a small velvet case, containing a brooch of flat, uncut diamonds; but as, at the same time, I distinctly saw spring from that abode of treasure a very large specimen of the flea family, I came home without investigating further. I have some beautiful books on Mexico which have been given me by various people--mostly large, heavy books,--Lumholz's _Unknown Mexico_, and Starr's _Indian Mexico_ are the last,--or I would send them, that you might share more completely my Mexican _étape_. It has been a strange summer, taking it all in all. Madero probably comes in on the 10th of November. It makes one's head swim to think of the mighty changes that are taking place all over the world. Haughty old China a republic!--and Mexico to be governed solely by brotherly love! And a free press and nobody to desire to continue in office! In other words, _all_ to resign and many to die. In church to-day the beautiful blue bag you gave me was stolen. I remember two women in deep mourning, black rebozos twisted about their heads, kneeling devoutly in the pew just behind me. The theft must have occurred at the moment of the "elevation," because when I rose from my knees both the bag and the black-robed devotees had disappeared. I had, fortunately, just left the Louis XV. watch at the jewelers', or that, too, would have gone.