'An English captain, the afternoon of the day following his arrival here, desired me to ride out with him and show him the parks of Culloden, without telling me the reason of his curiosity. Accordingly we set out; and when we were pretty near the place, he asked me; "Where are these parks? for," says he, "there is nothing near in view but heath, and at a distance rocks and mountains." I pointed to the enclosures; and, being a little way before him, heard him cursing in soliloquy; which occasioned my making a halt, and asking if any thing displeased him? Then he told me, that, at a coffee-house in London, he was one day commending the park of Studley in Yorkshire, and those of several gentlemen in other parts of England, when a Scots Captain who was by, cried out, "Ah, sir, but if you were to see the parks of Culloden in Scotland!"'--_Letters from a Gentleman in the North of Scotland to his Friend in London_, vol. i, p. 297.] [Footnote 21: Whoever recollects the inns at C----i----gh and B----rr----le, and no doubt many others, as they stood two-and-twenty years ago, will be at no loss for the prototypes of Miss Percy's house of entertainment. Later travellers in the Highlands may not find her description agree with their experience. The 'land of the mountain and the flood' has of late been the fashionable resort of the lovers of the picturesque, and of grouse-shooting; the refuge of those who wish to skulk or to economise; of fine gentlemen and fine ladies, who find the world not quite bad enough for them. The accommodations for travellers are of course improved. It were devoutly to be wished that this had been the only change effected by such visitants.] [Footnote 22: A packer.] [Footnote 23: Gille cumsrian.] CHAPTER XXIX _Hail awful scenes that calm the troubled breast, And woo the weary to profound repose; Can passion's wildest uproar lay to rest, And whisper comfort to the man of woes! Here Innocence may wander safe from foes, And Contemplation soar on seraph wings._ Beattie.