Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
After leaving Om-el-Dhiban we entered an undulating country crossed by
deep ravines, worn by the winter torrents. Four hours' ride brought us to
a scanty spring; half an hour beyond we passed a second; and in five and a
half hours pitched the tents, for the rest of the day, near a small
stream. All these springs are called Maalaga, and rising in the gypsum or
Mosul marble, have a brackish and disagreeable taste. The Bedouins
declare, that, although unpalatable, they are exceedingly wholesome, and
that even their mares fatten on the waters of Jeraiba.
Suttum came to me before nightfall, somewhat downcast in look, as if a
heavy weight were on his mind. At length, after various circumlocutions,
he said that his wife would not sleep under the white tent which I had
lent her, such luxuries being, as she declared, only worthy of city
ladies, and altogether unbecoming the wife and daughter of a Bedouin. "So
determined is she," said Suttum, "in the matter, that, Billah! she
deserted my bed last night and slept on the grass in the open air; and now
she swears she will leave me and return on foot to her kindred, unless I
save her from the indignity of sleeping under a white tent." It was
inconvenient to humor the fancies of the Arab lady, but as she was
inexorable, I gave her a black Arab tent, used by the servants for a
kitchen. Under this sheet of goat-hair canvass, open on all sides to the
air, she said she could breathe freely, and feel again that she was a
Bedouin.
We crossed, during the following evening, a beautiful plain covered with
sweet smelling flowers and aromatic herbs, and abounding in gazelles,
hares, and bustards. We reached in about two hours the encampments, whose
smoke we had seen during the preceding evening. They belonged to Bedouins
of the Hamoud branch of the Shammar, and had recently been plundering a
government caravan and slaughtering the soldiers guarding it. They are
notorious for treachery and cruelty, and certainly the looks of those who
gathered around us, many of them grotesquely attired in the plundered
garments of the slaughtered Turkish soldiery, did not belie their
reputation. They fingered every article of dress we had on, to learn its
texture and value.
Leaving their encampments, we rode through vast herds of camels and flocks
of sheep belonging to the tribe, and at length came in sight of the river.
The Khabour flows through the richest pastures and meadows. Its banks were
now covered with flowers of every hue, and its windings through the green
plain were like the coils of a mighty serpent. I never beheld a more
lovely scene. An uncontrollable emotion of joy seized all our party when
they saw the end of their journey before them. The horsemen urged their
horses to full speed; the Jebours dancing in a circle, raised their
colored kerchiefs on their spears, and shouted their war cry, Hormuzd
leading the chorus; the Tiyari sang their mountain songs and fired their
muskets into the air.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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