Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
Next day we made but little progress, encamping near a spring under the
village of Aldina, whose chief, Murad, had now returned from his
captivity. Grateful for my intercession in his behalf, he brought us sheep
and other provisions, and met us with his people as we entered the valley.
At his urgent request, I aided materially in inducing the people to pay
the dues of the tax-gatherer who was at that time in the village.
During the negociations, Suttum, surrounded by clamorous Yezidis, was
sitting in the shade, examining unfledged hawks. At length three were
deemed worthy of his notice: one being pretty well advanced in days was
sent to his tent for education, under the charge of the rider of the Nedjd
deloul. The others, being yet in a weak state, were restored to the nest,
to be claimed on his return from Mosul. The largest bird, being a very
promising specimen, cost five gazees or 1_l._; the others, three gazees
and a half, as the times were hard, and the tax-gatherers urgent for ready
money.
We rode on the following day for about an hour along the foot of the
Sinjar hill, which suddenly subsides into a low undulating country. The
narrow valleys and ravines were blood-red with gigantic poppies. The
Bedouins adorned the camels and horses with the scarlet flowers, and
twisted them into their own head-dresses and long garments. Even the
Tiyari dressed themselves up in the gaudy trappings of nature, and as we
journeyed chanting an Arab war-song, we resembled the return of a festive
procession from some sacrifice of old. During our weary marches under a
burning sun, it required some such episodes to keep up the drooping
spirits of the men, who toiled on foot by our sides. Poetry and flowers
are the wine and spirits of the Arab; a couplet is equal to a bottle, and
a rose to a dram, without the evil effects of either. Would that in more
civilised climes the sources of excitement were equally harmless!
In the evening Suttum inveighed bitterly against a habit of some
travellers of continually taking notes before strangers. I endeavoured to
explain the object and to remove his fears. "It is all very well," said
the Sheikh, "and I can understand, and am willing to believe, all you tell
me. But supposing the Turks, or any body else, should hereafter come
against us, there are many foolish and suspicious men in the tribe, and I
have enemies, who would say that I had brought them, for I have shown you
everything. You know what would be the consequences to me of such a
report. As for you, you are in this place to-day, and 100 days' journey
off to-morrow, but I am always here. There is not a plot of grass or a
spring that that man (alluding to one of our party) does not write down."
Suttum's complaints were not unreasonable, and travellers cannot be too
cautious in this respect, when amongst independent tribes, for even if
they do not bring difficulties upon themselves, they may do so upon
others.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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