Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
After the sun had set we dined outside the tents, and afterwards reclined
on our carpets to enjoy the cool balmy air of an Eastern night. We slept
under the open sky, making our beds in the field.
July had set in, and we were now in "the eye of the summer." My companions
had been unable to resist its heat. One by one we dropped off with fever.
The Doctor, after long suffering, had gone with Mr. Walpole to the cooler
regions of the Kurdish hills, there to wait until the state of the
excavations might enable me to join them. Mr. Cooper, too, had so much
declined in health that I sent him to the convent of Mar Metti, on the
summit of the Gebel Makloub. Mr. Hormuzd Rassam and myself struggled on
the longest, but at length we also gave way. Fortunately our ague attacks
did not coincide. We were prostrate alternate days, and were, therefore,
able to take charge alternately of the works. By the 11th of July I had
sent to Busrah the first collection of sculptures from Kouyunjik, and on
that day, in the middle of the hot stage of fever, and half delirious, I
left Mosul for the mountains.
While necessarily absent, I determined to visit those parts of central
Kurdistan not yet explored by European travellers, to devote some days to
the examination of the ruins and cuneiform inscriptions in and near the
city of Wan, and then to return to Mosul through the unexplored uplands
to the south of the lake of Wan, and by such of the Nestorian valleys as I
had not seen during my former journey in the mountains. I should then
spend the hottest part of the summer in the cool regions of Kurdistan, and
be again at Nineveh by September, when the heats begin to decline.
As few European travellers can brave the perpendicular rays of an Assyrian
sun, we struck our tents late in the afternoon, and got upon our horses at
the foot of the mound of Kouyunjik as the sun went down. With me were
Hormuzd, my old servants, and the faithful Bairakdar. Mr. Cooper was to
join us on the following day, and we were to seek the Doctor and Mr.
Walpole at Akra.
Five hours' ride over the plain brought us to the small Turcoman village
of Bir Hillan (the well of stone), which stands on the south-eastern spur
of the Makloub hills. After two hours' rest we continued our journey, and
crossed this spur before morning dawned. Leaving the Gebel Makloub, we
descended into a broad plain, stretching from it to the first Kurdish
range, and soon found ourselves on the banks of the Ghazir, here a clear
sparkling stream clothed with tall oleanders, now bending under their rosy
blossoms. We sought the shade of some spreading walnut-trees, during the
heat of the day, near the small Kurdish village of Kaimawa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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