Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
At sunrise, on the 8th August, the roaring of cannon, re-echoed by the
lofty rock, announced the end of Ramazan, and the beginning of the
periodical festivities of the Bairam. Early in the morning the Pasha,
glittering with gold and jewels, and surrounded by the members of his
household, the officers of the garrison, and the gaily-dressed chiefs of
the irregular troops, rode in procession through the streets of the town.
As it is customary he received in the palace the visits of the cadi,
mollahs, and principal Mussulman inhabitants of Wan, as well as of the
bishop, clergy, and elders of the Armenian church. The population,
rejoicing at their release from a fast almost intolerable in summer,
decked themselves in holiday garments, and made merry in the houses and
highways. The sounds of music and revelry issued from the coffee-houses
and places of public resort. The children repaired to swings,
merry-go-rounds, and stalls of sweetmeats, which had been raised in the
open spaces within the walls. The Christians add the feast to their own
festivals, already too numerous,[167] and, like their Mussulman
neighbours, pay visits of compliment and ceremony. Their women, who are
said to be handsome, but are even more rigidly concealed than the
Mohammedan ladies, crept through the streets in their long white veils.
I called in the evening on the bishop, and next morning, at his
invitation, visited the principal schools. Five have been established
since the fall of the Kurdish Beys, and the enjoyment of comparative
protection by the Christian population. Only one had been opened within
the walls; the rest were in the gardens, which are thickly inhabited by
Armenians, and form extensive suburbs to Wan. More than two hundred
children of all ages were assembled. They went through their exercises and
devotions at the sound of a bell with great order and precision,
alternately standing and squatting on their hams on small cushions placed
in rows across the hall. An outer room held basins and towels for washing,
and the cloaks and shoes taken off on entering. Books were scarce. There
were not more than a score in the whole school. The first class, which had
made some progress, had a few elementary works on astronomy and history,
published by the Armenian press at Constantinople and Smyrna, but only one
copy of each. The boys, at my request, sang and chanted their prayers, and
repeated their simple lessons.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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