Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
My companions had been compelled, from ill health, to leave the plain, and
had taken refuge in the convent of Yedi Klissia, from the sultry heats of
the plain. Before joining them, I visited the village of Amikh, where,
according to my Armenian guide, Nikòos, an inscription was engraved on the
rocks. I left the city on the 10th of August; but the time and labor
bestowed resulted only in disappointment.
From Amikh I rode across the country in a direct line to the monastery of
Yedi Klissia, whose gardens on the side of the lofty mountain of Wurrak
are visible from most parts of the plain. I stopped for an hour at the
church of Kormawor before ascending to the convent. An aged priest, with
beard white as snow, and wearing a melon-shaped cap, and long black robes,
was the guardian of the place. He led me into an arcade surrounding the
inner court of the building. Seeing that I was a Frank, he fancied at once
that I was searching for inscriptions, and pointed to a circular stone,
the base of a wooden column, which, he said, he had shown many years
before to a traveller, meaning Schulz. It bears three imperfect lines of
cuneiform writing, part of an inscription belonging to one of the Wan
kings, whose name Dr. Hincks read Minuas. It appears to record the
foundation of a temple. A second inscription on a black stone, and several
fragments with the same royal name, are built into the walls.
Eight hours' ride from Amikh brought me to the large Armenian convent of
Yedi Klissia, or the seven churches, built of substantial stone masonry,
and inclosing a spacious courtyard planted with trees. It has more the
appearance of a caravanserai than that of a place of religious retreat,
and is beautifully situated near the mouth of a wooded ravine, half-way up
a bold mountain, which ends in snowy peaks. Spread beneath it is a blue
lake and a smiling plain, and the city, with its bold castellated rock,
and its turreted walls half hid in gardens and orchards.
The church, a substantial modern edifice, stands within the courtyard. Its
walls are covered with pictures as primitive in design as in execution.
There is a victorious St. George blowing out the brains of a formidable
dragon with a bright brass blunderbuss, and saints, attired in the
traditionary garments of Europe, performing extravagant miracles. The
intelligence of the good priest at the head of the convent was pretty well
on a par with his illustrated church history. He was a specimen of the
Armenian clergy of Asia Minor. As he described each subject to me, he
spoke of the Nestorians as heretics, because they were allowed, by the
canons of their church, to marry their mothers and grandmothers; of the
Protestants as freemasons or atheists; and of the great nations of Europe
as the Portuguese, the Inglese, the Muscovs, and the Abbash (Abyssinians).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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