Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
In the absence of the Patriarch we were received by an intelligent and
courteous monk named Kirikor. His hair, as well as his beard, had never
known the scissors, and fell in long luxuriant curls over his shoulders.
It was of jetty black, for he was still a young man, although he had
already passed twenty years of a monastic life. He led us through an
arched doorway into the spacious courtyard of the convent, and thence into
an upper room furnished with comfortable divans for the reception of
guests. Tea was brought to us after the Persian fashion, and afterwards a
more substantial breakfast, in which the dried fish of the lake formed the
principal dish. Kirikor had visited Jerusalem and Constantinople, had read
many of the works issued by the Venetian press, and was a man of superior
acquirements for an Armenian monk of the orthodox faith.
The church, which is within the convent walls, is built of the sandstone
of a rich deep red color that has been quarried for the turbehs of Akhlat.
Like other religious edifices of the same period and of the same nation,
it is in the form of a cross, with a small hexagonal tower, ending in a
conical roof, rising above the centre. The interior is simple. A few rude
pictures of saints and miracles adorn the walls, and a gilded throne for
the Patriarch stands near the altar. The exterior, however, is elaborately
ornamented with friezes and broad bands of sculptured figures and scroll
work, the upper part being almost covered with bas-reliefs, giving to the
whole building a very striking and original appearance. I know of no
similar specimen of Armenian architecture, and I regret that time would
not allow me to make detailed drawings of the edifice.
In a grave-yard outside the church are several most elaborately carved
tombstones belonging to the early Armenian patriarchs. That of Zachariah,
who died in the fourteenth century, and who was for one year patriarch at
Echmiadsin and for nine years at Akhtamar, is especially worthy of notice
for the richness and elegance of its ornaments.
The convent and church are built on a small rocky island about five miles
from the shore. On an adjacent islet are the ruined walls of a castle
partly covered by the rising waters of the lake. Intercourse with the main
land is carried on by the one crank boat which, whenever the weather
permits, goes backwards and forwards daily for such provisions as are
required by the inmates of the monastery. Khan Mahmoud took the place by
collecting together the vessels belonging to Wan for the transport of his
troops.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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