Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
The district of Mukus, anciently Mogkh, and one of the provinces of the
Armenian kingdom, had only lately been brought under the authority of the
Sultan. Of its sixty villages forty are inhabited by Christian Armenians.
The revenues amounted the year of my visit to little more than 100,000
piastres (about 910_l._), of which the village of Mukus contributed
42,000. The garrison consisted of only forty regular soldiers and forty
Albanians, so completely had the seizure of their chiefs discouraged the
wild Kurdish tribes who dwell in the mountains, and were formerly in open
rebellion against the Porte. This nomade race forms the principal part of
the Mussulman population, and is the most fierce and independent in
Kurdistan.
The Mudir showed the greatest anxiety for our welfare during the night,
continually visiting our tents to see that the Albanians he had placed as
guards over our property did not sleep, as the village swarmed with Bohtan
thieves.
The principal Armenians of Mukus with their priests spent a morning with
me. They knew of no ruins or inscriptions in the district, and I found
them even more ignorant than their fellow-countrymen of the districts
around Wan, whose stupidity has passed into a Turkish proverb.
We left Mukus early in the afternoon, accompanied by the Mudir. The path
following the course of the river, leads to Sert Jezireh and the Assyrian
plains. Next day we crossed a high mountain ridge covered in some places
with snow, separating the district of Mukus from that of Shattak. Its
northern and western slopes are the summer pastures of the Miran Kurds,
whose flocks were still feeding on the green lawns and in the flowery
glens. On the opposite side of the pass we found an encampment of Hartushi
Kurds, under one Omar Agha, a noble old chieftain, who welcomed us with
unbounded hospitality, and set before me every luxury that he possessed.
Shattak, the Mudir of which village had prepared for our reception, is a
small town, rather than a village. It is chiefly inhabited by Armenians,
an industrious and hardy race, cultivating the sides of the mountains, on
which are built their villages, and weaving in considerable quantities the
gay-colored woollen stuffs so much esteemed by the Kurds. In nearly every
house was a loom, and the rattle of the shuttle came from almost every
door. The mountains produce galls, wool (some of which has the same silky
texture as that of Angora), the small under-wool of the goat called
_teftik_ (a valuable article of export), and minerals. In the bazar at
Shattak I saw a few English prints, and other European wares brought for
sale from Wan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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