Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
We continued our journey through a deep and narrow valley hemmed in by
high mountains and by perpendicular cliffs. The Melek met us on the road
near the village of Cherichereh, or Klissa. The old man had the too
common tale to tell us, of oppression and wrong on the part of the Turks.
Melek Beniamen implored me to help him in his difficulties; but I could do
no more than offer words of sympathy and consolation. Leaving the Melek to
pursue his tax-gathering, we rode through a magnificent valley, now
narrowing into a wild gorge walled with precipitous cliffs, then opening
into an amphitheatre of rocks encircling a village imbedded in trees. The
valley at length was abruptly closed by the towering peaks and precipices
of the Jelu mountain. At its foot is the village of Khouresin, where we
encamped for the night. The inhabitants were, for the most part, like the
other people of Diz, in the Zomas, or summer pastures.
Not far from the Zomas of Diz were the tents of the villagers of Jelu.
They also had encamped on the very verge of eternal snow, but within the
boundaries of Diz, as there were no pastures on the other side of the pass
in their own district. They were better clothed, and showed more signs of
comfort, if not of wealth, than their unfortunate neighbours. Many of the
men spoke a little Arabic, and even Turkish, learnt during their yearly
visits as basket-makers to the low country.
We were still separated from the valley of Jelu by a shoulder jutting from
the lofty Soppa-Durek mountain. Before reaching this rocky ridge, we had
to cross a broad tract of deep snow, over which we had much difficulty in
dragging our heavily laden mules. When on the crest of the pass we found
ourselves surrounded on all sides by rugged peaks, the highest being that
known as the Toura Jelu, of which we had scarcely lost sight from the day
we had left Mosul. It is probably the highest mountain in central
Kurdistan, and cannot be under, if it be not indeed above, 15,000 feet.
The pass we crossed before descending into the valley of Jelu is
considered the highest in the Nestorian country, and is probably more
than 11,000 feet above the level of the sea.
From the top of the pass we looked down into a deep abyss. The pathway was
fearfully dangerous, and over steep and slippery rocks. Down this terrible
descent we had to drag our jaded horses, leaving our track marked in
blood. I have had some experience in bad mountain roads, but I do not
remember to have seen any much worse than that leading into Jelu. After
numerous accidents and great labor we left a rocky gully, and found
ourselves on a slope ending, at a dizzy depth, in a torrent scarcely
visible from our path. The yielding soil offered even a more difficult
footing for our beasts than the polished rocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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