Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
A pine-shaped cone of snowy whiteness rises to the right; near it are one
or two drooping palms, that seem fast falling to decay, like the building
over which they can no longer throw their shade. This is the tomb of
Zobeide, the lovely queen of Haroun-al-Reshid, a name that raises many a
pleasant association, and recalls to memory a thousand romantic dreams of
early youth.
We pass the palace of the governor, an edifice of mean materials and
proportions. At its windows the pasha himself and the various officers of
his household may be seen reclining on their divans, amidst wreaths of
smoke. A crazy bridge of boats crosses the stream, and appears to bar all
further progress. At length the chains are loosened, two or three of the
rude vessels are withdrawn, and the rafts glide gently through. A few
minutes more, and we are anchored beneath the spreading folds of the
British flag, opposite a handsome building, not crumbling into ruins like
its neighbours, but kept in repair with European neatness. A small iron
steamer floats motionless before it. We have arrived at the dwelling of
the English Consul-general and political agent of the East India Company
at Baghdad.
It was early in the morning of the 26th October that I landed at the
well-remembered quay of the British residency. In the absence of Colonel
Rawlinson, then in England, his political duties had been confided to
Captain Kemball, now the East India Company's Resident at Bushire. He
received me with great kindness, and I acknowledge with gratitude the
hospitality and effective assistance I invariably experienced from him
during my sojourn at Baghdad, and my researches in Babylonia.
More than ten years had passed since my first visit to the city. Time had
worked its changes amongst those who then formed the happy and hospitable
English society of Baghdad. Dr. Ross was no more. In him Arab as well as
European, rich as well as poor, Mohammedan as well as Christian, had lost
a generous and faithful friend.
Twelve years ago four steamers floated on the Tigris, and were engaged in
exploring the then almost unknown rivers of Mesopotamia and Susiana.
Their officers formed a small English colony in Baghdad. Three of those
vessels had long been withdrawn, one alone having been left to keep up a
monthly communication between this city and Busrah. It is to be regretted,
however, that a vessel better suited to the navigation of the rivers has
not been selected.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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