Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
As I dismounted, the Sheikh advanced to embrace me, and when his arms were
round my neck my head scarcely reached to his shoulder. He led me into
that part of the tent which is set aside for guests. It had been prepared
for my reception, and was not ill furnished with cushions of silk and soft
Kurdish carpets. The tent itself was more capacious than those usually
found amongst Arabs. The black goat-hair canvass alone was the load of
three camels[70], and was supported by six poles down the centre, with the
same number on either side. Around a bright fire was an array of highly
burnished metal coffee-pots, the largest containing several quarts, and
the smallest scarcely big enough to fill the diminutive cup reserved for
the solitary stranger.
Coffee was, of course, the first business. It was highly spiced, as drank
by the Bedouins. The Howar, after some general conversation, spoke of the
politics of the Tai, and their differences with the Turkish government.
The same ruinous system which has turned some of the richest districts of
Asia into a desert, and has driven every Arab clan into open rebellion
against the Sultan, had been pursued towards himself and his tribe. Owing
to the extortionate demands of the Turkish governors, and intestine
dissensions and broils between the Arabs themselves, the country had
rapidly been reduced to a state of anarchy. The Arabs, having no one
responsible chief, took, of course, to plundering. The villages on the
Mosul side of the Zab, as well as in the populous district of Arbil, were
laid waste. The Kurds, who came down into the plains during the winter,
were encouraged to follow the example of the Tai, and, from the
rapaciousness and misconduct of one or two officers of the Turkish
government, evils had ensued whose consequences will be felt for years,
and which will end in adding another rich district to the desert. Such is
the history of almost every tribe in Turkey, and such the causes of the
desolation that has spread over her finest provinces.
The Tai is a remnant of one of the most ancient and renowned tribes of
Arabia. The Howar himself traces his descent from Hatem, a sheikh of the
tribe who lived in the seventh century, and who, as the impersonation of
all the virtues of Bedouin life, is the theme to this day of the Arab
muse. His hospitality, his generosity, his courage, and his skill as a
horseman were alike unequalled, and there is no name more honored amongst
the wild inhabitants of the desert than that of Hatem Tai. The Howar is
proud of his heroic ancestor, and the Bedouins acknowledge and respect his
descent.[71]
We dined with the Sheikh and sat until the night was far spent, listening
to tales of Arab life, and to the traditions of his tribe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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