Discoveries in Australia, Volume 1.: With an Account of the Coasts and Rivers Explored and Surveyed During; The Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in the Years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43.; By Command of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. Also a Narrative; Of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits to the Islands in the Arafura Sea.Stokes, John Lort
History
Discoveries in Australia, Volume 1.: With an Account of the Coasts and Rivers Explored and Surveyed During; The Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, in the Years 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43.; By Command of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. Also a Narrative; Of Captain Owen Stanley's Visits to the Islands in the Arafura Sea.
Stokes, John Lort
Australia -- Description and travel; Australia -- Discovery and exploration; Natural history -- Australia
At daylight I climbed the highest tree I could find on the eastern bank
of the river, in order to get a peep at the surrounding country. The
prospect, however, was but limited. The landscape presented to my view,
was an almost uninterrupted level; open woodlands, with here and there a
few grassy spots, were its prevailing features. I could see nothing of
the river itself beyond the reach in which the boats were lying; its
upper extremity bore South by West and was about half a mile from our
halting place. I made a discovery in climbing this tree, which I hoped to
make available in our farther ascent of the Fitzroy, should we be so
fortunate as to accomplish its further exploration, or in any similar
circumstances during our examination of these untrodden wilds. It was
this, and I mention it, as the hint may be useful to others: I found our
enemies the mosquitoes did not resort to the higher portions of the tree,
and that by climbing some thirty feet from the ground, a night's repose,
or at least a night undisturbed by their attacks might be obtained.
Hastening back to the boats, we pushed on, but were some time getting to
the end of the reach, the shallowness of the water rendering our advance
difficult and tedious; entering at length the next, which trended
South-West for about half a mile, the river gradually widened out until
it attained a breadth of about half that space. An extensive flat of sand
fronted the eastern bank, which was very low, and though now dry, bore
undoubted marks of being not unfrequently visited by floods. The western
bank of the next reach was low and broken, evidently forming a group of
low grassy islands when the river is in a higher state.
Some yellow sandstone cliffs, from ten to sixteen feet in height, formed
the opposite bank of this reach, which extended barely a quarter of a
mile, in from a South by East to a South by West direction; and varied in
width from one to two hundred yards. We now entered a lake-like reach of
the river, trending south for a mile and a quarter, having a breadth of
about a hundred yards, and a depth in many places of twelve feet; being
twice that which we had usually found in any of the lower reaches, with
scarcely any stream. Soon after entering this remarkable sheet of water,
we noticed a rock formation in its western banks; this we found to be a
coarse-grained red sandstone, with fragments of quartz, and extended for
nearly a quarter of a mile along the edge of the water. Over many parts
of it was a coating of a dark and metallic appearance, about three inches
thick; and the surface in places presented a glazed or smelted
appearance. Mr. Darwin, in his work upon volcanic islands, page 143,
alludes to this formation, under the head of "Superficial ferruginous
beds," and thus concludes his observations: "The origin of these
superficial beds, though sufficiently obscure, seems to be due to
alluvial action on detritus abounding with iron."
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