Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia and the peninsula of Sinai, in the years 1842-1845, during the mission sent out by his majesty, Frederick William IV of Prussia.Lepsius, Richard
History
Discoveries in Egypt, Ethiopia and the peninsula of Sinai, in the years 1842-1845, during the mission sent out by his majesty, Frederick William IV of Prussia.
I return from my wandering through the ruins of the royal city, and
through the changing thousands of years, which have passed over them, to
our fort on the exposed hill of Abd el Qurna. Wilkinson and Hay have
done an eminent service to later travellers, who, like ourselves,
purpose remaining a long time in Thebes, by the restoration of these
inhabitable places. An easy broad way leads windingly from the plain to
a spacious court, the left side of which towards the mountain is formed
by a long shadowy pillared row; behind this are several inhabitable
rooms. At the extremity of the court there is still a single
watch-tower, whence the Prussian flag is streaming, and close by it a
little house of two stories, the lower of which I myself inhabit. Space,
too, is there for the kitchen, the servants, and the donkeys.
Incomparably beautiful and attractive is the boundless prospect over the
Thebaic plain from the wall of the court, low towards the inside and
deep on the outside. Here all that remains of ancient Thebes may be
seen, or still better from the battlements of the tower or from the
hills immediately behind our house. Before us the magnificent ruins of
the Memnonia, from the hill of Qurna on the left, to the high pylones
towering over the black ruins of Medînet Habu to the right, then the
green region surrounded by the broad Nile, whence on the right the
lonely colossi of Amenophis rise; and on the other side of the river the
temple groups of Karnak and Luqsor, behind the plain, stretches for
several hours to the sharp little undulating outline of the Arabian
mountains, over which we see the first rays of the sun gleaming, and
pouring a wonderful flood of colours over the valley and rocky desert. I
cannot compare this ever-existing prospect with any other in the world;
but it reminds me forcibly of the picture, which I had for two years,
from the top of the Tarpeian rock, and which comprehended the whole
extent of ancient Rome, from the Aventine and the Tiber beneath it to
the Quirinal, and thence over the hill to the undulating Campagna, with
the beautiful profile, so strikingly like the one here, of the Alvan
mount in the back ground.
But our glance never turns on the far-reaching prospect without gliding
down to the silver waterway with peculiar attention, and following the
pointed sails, which may bring us letters or travellers from the north.
Winter here, as everywhere else, is a season of sociability. A week
never passes in which we do not see several guests. A visitor’s book,
which I have opened here for later travellers, and provided with a
preface, was dedicated to that use by our own signatures at the new
year. Since then more than thirty names have been entered, although the
book is only obtainable at our fort, and will only be delivered up to
our worthy castellan ’Auad on our departure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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