The streets of the city are wide, and of course arranged as usual to run
at right angles; there has been no hurry or confusion in the building of
it, the spirit of the designer is visible everywhere, and the design has
been carefully carried out with harmonious effect; every vista is
pleasant and refreshing to the eye. Like most other southern cities the
thoroughfares are shaded with magnificent old trees, thickly planted,
and of prodigious size, on both sides of the road; and yet Columbia has
a character peculiarly its own. It is like an oasis lifted up and out of
the great world round it; a serene and silent city it sits apart, with a
life and story all its own; there is no noise or bustle, no hurrying
throngs of people streaming through the vacant streets, no jingling
bells of cars, no rattling of carriages passing over the stony
roads--only at certain hours the hotel omnibuses crawl to and from the
station--a drowsy hum is in the air, the shops have opened their glassy
eyes and are blinking in the morning light; they might as well go to
sleep again--nobody seems to want to buy anything--only a few stragglers
are wandering aimlessly about, everything moves leisurely, nobody seems
in a hurry about anything. Life itself seems to move onward with slow
and solemn footstep, scarce making a single echo on the shores of time.
So stands this lovely city steeped in the southern sunshine, robed in
fair green garlands, with blooming gardens clinging about her skirts;
there is a refreshing sweetness in the air, a purity and harmony mingled
with a Sabbath stillness everywhere.
A patriarchal simplicity pervades the atmosphere, the people seem to
know we are strangers, and as strangers greet us with a recognising
smile or pleasant word; the coloured folks relapse into a broad grin;
there is a gentle courtesy, an air of good breeding, even among the
loafers gathered at the street corners as they lift their ragged caps
and make way for us to pass. We turn down a pretty, shady thoroughfare
and as we are rambling along in a state of sweet contentment, imbued
with the brooding spirit of the place, a cheery voice bids us “Good
morning.” We look up and two black faces with laughing eyes and gleaming
teeth look down upon us from a perfect nest of roses, the two women are
sitting in their balcony with their dusky children rolling at their
feet; a game at questions, answers, and observations follows, and we
enjoy quite a pleasant characteristic conversation; one comes down and
brings us a handful of sweet-smelling flowers as we pass on our way.
We wander through this idyllic city as through a land of dreams, and
have some difficulty in finding our way back to our hotel, as the
streets are all verbally christened but none have their names written
up, the houses too are unnumbered. I remarked that this is an awkward
arrangement or want of arrangement.
“Not at all,” is the answer, “everybody knows everybody here.”
“But it is certainly puzzling for strangers.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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